Trying to insulate an enclosed loft space above my kitchen?

We live in a two storey Edwardian semi which has the kitchen at the back in a single story extension. The kitchen is much harder to heat than the rest of the house because it has 3 external walls and virtually no insulation. The kitchen roof slopes at an angle but there is no entrance to this loft space to lay traditional insulation. I suppose I could take some tiles off the roof but that would be quite a big job. Is there some insulation I could blow into the space that would improve the situation?

Reply to
johnboy
Loading thread data ...

because

Why not cut a trap door - not only can you insulate easier and cheaper than blowing in, you can also access lighting wires etc in the future.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Yes:

formatting link
a trap door isnt too hard, though in this case it might be not a lot of use.

NT

Reply to
Tabby

In addition to the lighting wiring I am guessing that the cables for the sockets and cooker are already up in this loft space. Covering these cables in insulation may make them overheat so just blowing insulation in may cause problems as it is impossible to do so without covering the cables.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

above a kitchen there's the problem of condensation as warm moist air rises and cools... have you enough height to lose a bit, stick kingspan to the ceiling from underneath? [g]

Reply to
george [dicegeorge]

Make an entrance. Not too hard: padsaw, plasterboard. Then use insulation in narrow strips, laid out flat in the kitchen and pushed into place with a soft broom. There's no space to unroll a roll up there.

OTOH, you've more wall area than roof and you really need to get some Cellotex in there before it will ever be "warm".

Reply to
Andy Dingley

S'what I did for our en-suite bathroom, which is in a dormer with no access to the space above. Makes like much easier.

Reply to
Huge

Make absolutely certain that you insulate any pipes in that loft well. By that I mean the black closed-cell rubbery stuff (armaflex, preferably the 25mm stuff).

Otherwise like a neighbour you may come home to water pouring out from under the bargeboard for several hours (could not contact them and could not risk turning the road stopcock off).

If your walls are very damp solid brick, suffering wind driven rain, with a wet verge roof of tiles on rotted felt on mortar, then Celotex between treated battens is often not so good. The wood will rot and anything but stainless screws will split horizontal mortar courses (got a wall to repoint from just that next year). A better solution can be bonding 40mm Marmox to the wall with Keraflex, it is only

2/3rds as good as Celotex and even more costly - but you stick it on like buttered toast, no mucking about with battens.

If your walls are reasonably dry, that is to say the roof on the lean- to is good, then Celotex between treated battens works very well. Even

40mm Celotex is eye-popping going from "impossibly cold to no heating required". I would not use rockwool on solid double brick having seen it turn into a sodden mass in 6 months from interstitial condensation whereupon its insulation value was zero and it froze the pipes in the wall through direct conduction whilst it was being stripped out last winter. Celotex (& Marmox) are closed cell foams, Marmox is aimed at shower/bath/kitchen/wet-room areas.

If you are electric heating, realise too little will just not work because you can not build up the thermal mass which takes 4-5 days. Same goes for GCH - if the radiator is undersized or not zoned to come on more often then you will not get enough thermal charging because once it cools off it has no chance of getting back up to temperature. Sometimes a bigger aluminium radiator (or even better the old cast iron) can help to get more heat output in a given (limited) space. Failing that a 700W oil radiator can help, or an on-demand electric fan heater like Dimplex FX20V/VE/VL, or an underplinth electric-fan- but-wet-radiator system.

Reply to
js.b1

IME whatever you "push" has a tendency to snag on every little obstruction, particularly with a lath and plaster ceiling. 50mm Celotex is the easiest because an 8ft strip is rigid enough to cope with a bit of shoving and you can position it to leave space round cables. Not always easy to get a good fit if you can't get to the whole length of the joist to measure the width. Hopefully the joist distances will be uniform

Reply to
stuart noble

usually the cable lies on the plasterboard, so no problem.

NT

Reply to
Tabby

If the cable is lying in contact with the plasterboard then the OP is limited to100mm of loft insulation. If the cable is already lying on top of some insulation then the OP cannot just go throwing more insulation on top.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.