Hi all, I want to create a false wall in my bathroom to hide all the pipes behind, I want to tile this new wall from floor to ceiling, so do not need it plastered. What is the best new surface to build the wall out of, that will accept the tiles without the need for plaster? Regards Ewen
Plasterboard?
Owain
Plywood.
But make it 18mm, not flimsy stuff, and make sure it's rigid or any flexing will have your tiles off. Been there, done that...
David
"Lobster" wrote
Or if it's going to be constantly wet, Aqua Panel or similar? Just hear-say not used this myself
Phil
But use a flexible adhesive anyway.
The message from Lobster contains these words:
And if needed, cut some long strips a couple of inches wide and glue them edge-on to the back to stiffen it further.
Plasterboard foil backed for cheap. MDF for structural strength. Marine style ply for strength, and resistaance to distortion if it gets soaking wet. Aquapanel or masterboard/multiboard if you think that you want it to stay up even when one of the joints you will have to hack it down to get at, springs a leak ;-)
Frankly I'd use plasterboard if you can arrange decent studs or 19mm MDF if they are a bit sparse.
The erst are paranoid overkill for a wall.
First sane answer.
I've used the lot. I even HAD a leak behind plasterboard. It stood up long enough to find it and to at least show it..once fixed it dried out OK.
Tiles are 99% waterproof. They are certainly splashproof. There isn't much flex on 15mm plasterboard over 400mm centered studs - they won't fall off unless you slam the wall with your fist.
I also tend to seal any gaps with filler. caulk or silicone BEFORE tiling...
Best is cement board (i.e. Aquapanel). Next best is WBP ply. Finally plasterboard is usually fine. All can be tiled.
Christian.
Well 'best' from what point of view?
Certainly not cost.
probably 'best' from low flex and waterproofness is a steel beam to support a load of concrete blocks rendered with epoxy for total waterproofing...;-)
The best in terms of performance for any reasonably practical covering for a stud partition. Not coincidentally, the cost goes down with performance.
Christian.
Well not necessarily. You could just buy a couple of old masters hang them up and tile over them.
Expensive AND useless.
However one tends to automatically discount such solutions.
My pint remains that aquapanel is a waste of money. If the tiles have already cracked off enough to allow water ingress, then a cheaper bit of plasterboard would have sufficed anyway.
YOU may gold plate your loudspeaker terminals. I don't bother.
It is a lot harder to fix if the substrate is now cardboard.
As an electrical engineer, I would say this is one of the few things to bother about. Gold plating terminals seriously helps maintain a good connection, as gold is very resistant to oxidation. It also costs almost nothing to do, so you certainly don't have to spend silly money on audiophile equipment.
As for the cable, nice thick copper is good. No need to spend a fortune, but I was easily able to pick out a nice thick cable over a thin one in a blind test. 189 strand OFC is excellent at about a quid a metre. For lower powered systems, 105 strand is OK. They are all significant improvements over the cheap stuff you get free. There is no significant advantage to going larger, unless you believe in fairies, or have a kW PA system.
Christian.
Vertical tiled surfaces are rarely wet for long (something to do with gravity I think :-)).
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