Securing UTP network cable on internal run

[Caecilius]

I'm going to be running some UTP Ethernet cable from one room on the first floor to another room on the same floor. Total length of the run is about

16 metres. I'm planning to use cat5e because it has a smaller diameter and menimum bend radius than cat6, which should make for an easier and neater job. I'm planning to run the cable on top of the skirting boards and around the edges of the door frames. Both the skirting and door frames are wood.

My question is: what is the best way to fix the cable? I've seen BT use a staple gun for their voice-grade cable, and that gives a nice tidy appearance, but I think you are not supposed to staple cat 5 cable. The alternative seems to be cable clips, but that doesn't sound like a good solution as the cable clips will be about twice the diameter of the cable. I've also heard of people using a hot-melt glue gun, but that sounds like a bodge to me.

Any pointers on the best solution? Are cable clips the only way, or is there a better option?

[Bob Eager]

You can get cable clips suitable for round section cable. And for different diameters...I have 5mm, 6mm and 7mm in the box. Choose whatever you need....

[Tim S]

Caecilius coughed up some electrons that declared:

D-Line trunking is quite nice, but not cheap - Homebase usually have it.

Hot glue won't hurt the cable, and round clips as Bob said are available.

HTH

Tim

[martin_pentreath]

Hi Caecilius

"There are specialized staplers for CAT 5, 5e, and 6 cable. I have the Acme 25AC (Product Review) and Arrow T-59 staplers and both work fine."

regards to Metella and Quintus,

Martin

[Ron Lowe]

The best solution is to find a cable path that isn't visible and use no clips at all.

Like inside the walls or under the floors. Yes, it's a bit of hassle.

Failing that, correctly sized clips are the best option.

[Pete Verdon]

:-)

Pete

[Dave Liquorice]

I'd agree with that but if the skirting is ogee run the cable along the top large curve and it "disappears" once painted. Far more so than if it's tacked along the top againts the wall.

Proper round topped cable staples are fine and neater. Though buying a suitable stapler for a 16m run is probably a bit excessive. You could use round topped staples of a suitable size and a hammer just gently nip the cable and don't bash it with a missed hammer blow.

[Frank Erskine]

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 00:05:16 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice" had this to say:

I agree. For a "one-off" job buying a stapler is overkill. Cleats of numerous sizes are readily available - used with a 'staple hammer' they'd be almost as quick as a stapler. For an horizontal run, the length of the hammer handle is a guide to the correct distance between cleats; a vertical run the distance can be a bit more. If you get cleats that are suitably sized for the cable there'll be little sag resulting from cable pulling through the cleats.

For a shorter run, in the past I've used Bostik No. 1 (clear adhesive) to stick 4W telephone cable to a curved stone wall in a farmhouse - it was remarkably inconspicuous, AISIM.

[tony sayer]

In article , Caecilius scribeth thus

You can use cable staple clips just make sure they only "just" hold the cable and don't compress it. Hot melt glue is fine as well and is an adaptive answer to the job and not a bodge at all;)..

[Andy Dingley]

It'll be poor old Grumio having to do all the cabling though