room thermostat

[ninjabika]

hi-ya all

found this place by accident , and it looks an extremely useful place to stumble across, i've a questio if somebody can help me out i' appreciate it.

my girl friends house has a worcester bosch 24i rsf combi boile fitted in it, the problem is that there's no room thermostat just numbered dial on the boiler itself, i'd like to fit a room thermosta are these difficult to fit , i'm a maintenance engineer by trade so think i'm capable , i've had a look in the manual and it says there ar three terminals and a jumper if a room thermostat is used to take ou the jumper and use a neutral to the RN . switched to the RI and a live to the RL. could someone give me a clue how i would wir this to a room controller, i presume the wiring would be the same if used wireless controller aswell , at least on the controller sid anyway.

Marti

-- ninjabika

[marble]

The thermostat is just a switch and replaces the jumper. The jumper is between RL and RI right? If so the RL and RI go to the switch in the thermostat. If the thermostat is mains controled then the RL and RN need to go to its live and neutral.

I'd use a wireless one to save running mains volatage cable all over the house.

[Franko]

On my Bosch Worcester 28cdi I fitted a wireless thermostat which I bought from the Plumb Center at the same time as the boiler, as I remember it came with a wireless receiver which replaced the numbered dial on the boiler (made for the job) and enables me to site the thermostat anywhere in the house. It has worked faultlessly so far. Here is a link

you shop around you will get it cheaper, I think I paid about £80 a couple of years ago.

Franko.

[Doctor Drivel]

I would only use one of those if all else fails.

[ninjabika]

if i used a wired in one does that mean that i would have to add power supply to it, has any one any ideas on how i would do this pleas

-- ninjabika

[Doctor Drivel]

Two wires is enough for many stats, as they may have a battery inside. Stat/programmers are battery operated.

[marble]

They work fine!

Plus adding a receiver next to the boiler would be permited under part P running 10m cable all over the shop wouldnt IMO.

[marble]

Not if its battery powered. If its mains powered use the L & N as I explained, use some 3 core & earth.

[Doctor Drivel]

They are expensive a liable to go wrong. A simple cheap, reliable stat or stat/programmers is best. The wireless units are to get you out of a problem. If you can wire it then wire it.

[williamsmark]

I am reasonable at DIY however having a problem in wiring up a new roo

thermostat to my new boiler.

The boiler (Ravenheat Little Star) only has two connections for roo stat and the stat (Drayton Digistat 3) has 3 connections. Can anyone help with what connects to what.

I've rewired the house with no problems but this has me a bi bewildered.

Any help would be gratefully received

Mar

-- williamsmark

[mike ring]

williamsmark wrote in news: [e-mail]:

It has

(1) a common connection (2) Call for heat (3) heating satisfied

(I would have called 2 normally open, and 3 normally closed, but WTH?)

So I guess I'd use 1 and 3.

I did, and mine works.

You might want to check that your boiler requires a volts free closure at the thermostat, it's a million it will.

mike

mike

[Andy]

Think I'm correct in saying that a 3 wire system is Live, Neutral and Heat. My old thermostat needed a Live/Neutral supply to drive it but only needed the live to be switched to the Heat to control the boiler. Have now fitted a new 2 contact room stat and have only used the Live and Heat wires and isolated the Neutral as this was no longer needed... all works fine.

In order to use you're existing stat I presume you will need a Neutral feed to the stat or you could simply buy a new 2 wire stat.

Andy

[marble]

You trust RF for LANs with all the security/crap performance downside yet dont even trust RF to switch a boiler on and off? RF thermostats are no more "liable to go wrong" than an RF LAN.

The convienence and instant no mess completely legal DIY instalation outweighs the extra expense for most people, its up to the OP to decide whats thats worth to him.

[Doctor Drivel]

I don't 100% trust RF for LANs

I'm certain it can switch a boiler, I have seen them do it. If it is easy to wire, then wire it, as it is cheaper and less to go wrong.

You do not over engineer or make anything more complex than need be.

[Keith G. Powell]

And they don't have to be expensive. See the Towerstat RF at

haven't used it. Has anyone experience of the Towerstat and it's facilities?

Keith G. Powell

[Dave Plowman (News)]

It's obvious again you have little to no practical knowledge. To run a concealed cable from the boiler to a stat in say the living area is likely to be a deal of work in the average house and may well involve redecorating.

That's a joke coming from you.

[Doctor Drivel]

** snip drivelling senility **

[Christian McArdle]

I presume you mean 1 and 2, unless it was an air conditioning system you were installing...

Christian.

[mike ring]

"Christian McArdle" wrote in news:43820384$0$23987$ [e-mail]:

No, 1 and 3, I remembered how confusing the instructions were so I took it off it's mount to check what I'd done.

The diagram gives no idea - I guess it's not a standard relay but some sort of flip flop, and they have it marked as I said.

So I'm guessing 1>3 what they call "call for heat" is normally closed as in my day things were drawn in the unenergised condition. 1>2 "heating satisfied" has no use in my system, I suppose I could connect a light to it to show the boiler isn't running. The way they've drawn the contacts the heating woulld never start.

(Who'd a thought they could make it such hard work?)

mike

[Christian McArdle]

You originally said 1->2 was call for heat...

Normally, the CFH is called NO, as it is usually considered "normal" for the heating to be off. CFH is less ambiguous.

Christian.