Yes. Dunno if I'm a typical DIYer, but I first bought a similar one with
8" blade and found it just too restricted in the size of timbers it would handle. I replaced it with a sliding 10" type and that does near enough everything I want.
Exactly, although who's a typical DIYer?
The typical application for a small mitre saw could be small decorative work like trims, architraves and even picture frames. However, for all of these, repeatable precision and very clean cuts are needed or the result will look like crap.
The 250mm ones really are the sweet spot between the small number of
200mm machines on the market and the much larger 300mm ones. One only has to look at the number of products in each category to realise this.
The 8" kinzo cuts upto 4" wide timber, which is enough for a lot of jobs. For larger timber one can always cut part way then turn it round
- far from ideal but it extends the thing's versatility, and the resulting cut turns out ok. Clamping the wood to the ali base before cutting makes a big difference re getting the cuts accurate and true, as the wood tends to get dragged sideways a bit otherwise.
In what way is it the sweet spot? I need to buy another mitre saw, something better this time, so could do with any pointers. And this time I think I'd best go see the thing before buying, make sure the base is all metal, theres no slack on the mechanism, it runs freely, the guard retracts ok, the fence is strong and so on.
NT
Mmmm... depends on the application - might be OK for some.
Really the wood should be clamped anyway for safety reasons, but if it is dragged sideways, something is out of adjustment.
I think that these are the right criteria - especially not buying sight unseen. I suppose that that's OK for the entry level saws because if all else fails they can be binned, but not something to contemplate on something of > £100. It's worth going to a tool/machinery shop or trade show to look at several brands before buying for anything like this. On several occasions with tools and machinery, I have changed my mind because of this.
You've already highlighted the limitations of the small saws, although this can partly be avoided with sliding compound mitre saws which can at least cut wide but not too thick material.
The 300mm saws like the DeWalt 708 are very effective, but the number of instances where this cutting capacity is needed are small. They are very large machines in comparison to a 250mm model.
If you want a non-slide compound mitre saw, there are some fairly reasonable generics around private labelled as Delta and others. For example the 36225 for about £140, but there are others. Slightly up from that (£150) is Elektra Beckum. There's some good offers around at the moment because they are rebranding to Metabo. The Makita LS1040 is a very good buy at £170.
If you want a sliding model, then I really would resist the temptation to buy one at the same price point. Unsurprisingly the weaknesses in the cheap models are the slide mechanisms with lack of smoothness and rigidity. Some are really floppy and the effect can be a wobbly cut which can be seen with the naked eye, let alone putting a steel rule on the cut end and looking for light.
Generally, to get anything decent involves a price tag of about £400+ (e.g. Makita LS1013 etc.) Again, there are a few Elektra Beckum KGS303s around for about £380. Bosch isn't bad either at around the same price, but mechanism not quite as good as the Makita.
One thing to watch for is whether or not the saw can tilt both ways - not all do.
They're just like buses only worse. None show up and then none come at once.
On one occasion, I needed a transfer from one hospital to another in order to receive treatment. I was kept waiting for nearly five hours before eventually discharging myself and making my own arrangements in a taxi.
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