I have fitted a new pan connector (as the old one was leaking badly at the pan end) but it leaks slightly at the soil pipe. It's a straight horizontal connection. The pipe is a 100mm pipe, and the pan connector has a 100mm en d. But, the joint didn't feel tight. The instructions are to use PVC glue, which I did, and it still leaks a little. Should I use some other mastic/si licone instead? Or can I stop the leak without dismantling the joint again?
Ah. the pvc they will be reffering to is PVC cement used on solvent weld pipes. Comes in tins with a brush to apply. All the pan connectors I use narrow down to 90mm (never measured) fit into the plain end of the 100 mm pipe and has a large rubber finned gasket that seals but allows plenty of movement to align
Can the OP point to a picture of the pan connector? They aren't usually glued at all.
If you have solvent welded two pieces of PVC together, forget about ever trying to take them apart again.
For assembly of the finned rubber gasket joint, lubricate the rubber with wet soap so it slides easily. The soap will wash away or dry up so it doesn't continue to slide around for long once it's in place, but can still be pulled apart again if necessary.
e pan end) but it leaks slightly at the soil pipe. It's a straight horizont al connection. The pipe is a 100mm pipe, and the pan connector has a 100mm end. But, the joint didn't feel tight. The instructions are to use PVC glue , which I did, and it still leaks a little. Should I use some other mastic/ silicone instead? Or can I stop the leak without dismantling the joint agai n?
Thanks a lot for the replies.
Here's a link to a photo:
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The pan is to the left. The soil pipe in the wall is to the right. It says "glue" not cement on the tube, and it's not brushable. It's also been lying around for a few years and may be past its best. I can't try taking it apa rt again until tomorrow due to visitors. I dread it being "welded" together . There are no fins on this fitting. To the right of the collar (just at the wall) is a piece an inch or so long, 100mm diameter per the package. Beyond that, it narrows to 93mm for another inch or so. I'm in France and this was the only fitting that I could find that would fi t. The only straight rigid one was too short. All the others had bends. I w ent to three DIY/Builders Providers. The packaging instruction is to use PVC glue on the soil pipe end. In the event that it can't be separated, is there a substance that I could apply behind that collar that would stop the leak?
Presumably the soil pipe is inside the connector? If so, a large jubilee clip should work. If necessary, before the final tighten, carefully often the adapter slightly with a hot air gun.
No!! The soil pipe is flush with the wall. The connector goes into it, 100mm into 100mm, with PVC glue added to both surfaces, and a leak to follow. And, the possibility that it can't be dis-assembled!
I can think of no add on to really give along lasting solution. Wait see if anyone else has a better answer
Is that white rigid section embeded in wall part of the fitting you got? The pipework will be 110mm external.And I can imagine they do make one that terminates in 110, but it would join via a noraml staight connector ,or st ock length of pipe both that has its own gasket, I was going to suggest if the flexi is pipeholded rotaing it, but if its s olvent welded theres no chance
I actually think you do have correct part, alas they did not give you the rubber seal. its implied the mating surfaces are just the edges of the the 110, if its 110 to 110
93mm spigot into 104mm internal of pipe makes sense.(gasket seal differnce)
If you can't disassemble it, all I can think of is trying to seal the leak. You can do this from both inside and outside. You will need some PVC cement (which is PVC dissolved in solvent - you might be able to make some by collecting some PVC sawdust and dissolving it in the solvent you used).
Disconnect and move the toilet out of the way. You should be able to reach into the pipe and feel the inside join. Dry this thoroughly with kitchen roll and leave it to finish off drying in the air. Similarly, dry off the outside of the joint.
Then paint the PVC cement along the joint, both inside and outside the pipe. I would be very careful to keep it off the concertina section which is very thin and might dissolve. Hopefully this will go into the crack and set, sealing it. When the solvent has evaporated, if there's still a crack along the joint, probably worth repeating.
The solvent is nasty stuff - don't breath it in and work with the windows flung wide open.
I'm really doubting this concertina section was meant to be solvent welded in place. They don't last forever, and it would make replacement very difficult.
the pan connector on the toilet will come apart easy peasy and reseal blindfold.
At least you don't have to remove toilet to have another go! The original plumber did you no favours with the soil pipes being off set Like I say the connection into the pipe in the wall usually narrows to a spigot that goes 4 inch inside the fixed pipe work. Maybe them frenchies do it different
I'm not sure exactly what they're called on the containers, as I don't have either of them handy here at the moment. One is just PVC solvent. The other is PVC dissolved in PVC solvent, which I think may be referred to as PVC solvent cement sometimes.
The first one is normally used with PVC electrical conduit, and not with PVC plumbing, and doesn't work at all with ABS plumbing. It is quite a thin liquid. I suspect it might work with PVC plumbing, but only if the joint is a very close/tight fit on a dry test assembly.
The second one is normally used with PVC and ABS plumbing. (You won't find ABS pipework this large, but if it says it also works with ABS, you probably have the right stuff.) The dissolved PVC acts as a filler to help make the joint waterproof (and is necessary for it to work at all with ABS).
That's a rubber seal, right? If so, if it's new, there shouldn't be any problem. Wet the rubber sealing surface with plain soap to make assembly easy and reduce chance of any damage.
I do have a tub of it in front of me.....Solvent Cement. Also says unopened shelf life is 12 months. Abrade both surfaces with sandpaper, then clean with cleaning solvent.( I never have used cleaning solvent)
On Monday, February 9, 2015 at 12:41:53 AM UTC+1, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote :
spigot that goes 4 inch inside the fixed pipe work.
They certainly do it differently. The old fitting was glued to the inside o f the soil pipe. It took a long while lying on the floor to get it out. I u sed a tool designed for opening iPhones and a mallet and progressed inch by inch! But, there is no real offset; it's quite straight, hard to see on th e photo.
yond the collar that you see next to the wall there is a smooth 100mm secti on followed by a smooth 93mm section, each an inch long, protruding into th e soil pipe in the wall. The PVC glue is on the 100mm piece and also on the soil pipe. But, it leaks a little.
may be the best. I presume that the pan spigot end will come apart and rea ssemble without damage.
Thanks for all your detail, Andrew. It's stuck fast, whatever glue is on it, and in whatever state. So, I'm going with your idea to fill around it on the inside. I hadn't thou ght of that. It's quite easy to reach, if a little smelly. I'm off to the s hop now to get some suitable substance. Silicone based??
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