I am painting a wicker dressing screen white - no problem with that. It has brass hinges that I also want white. Can anyone advise as to what paint would be best to do that with? I figured hammerite, but I'm not sure - and if it is ok, which actual one would I use?
TIA
Angela
You really need to paint the bare brass with a metal primer, intended for use with non-ferous metals. Then you can use ordinary oil-based undercoat and topcoat over the primer.
Your problem is going to be getting it in sensible quantities - a litre will prime a hell of lot of hinges! I wonder whether a model shop would have anything suitable.
On Tue, 30 Jun 2009 22:09:09 +0100, "Roger Mills" had this to say:
Yeah - they'd probably charge model-shop prices though... :-)
The DIY sheds such as Homebase and Buy & Queue sell small tins of enamel paint that will go straight on to clean dry brass. I don't see any reason to use Hammerite in this situation.
| > TIA | >
| > Angela | | The DIY sheds such as Homebase and Buy & Queue sell small tins of enamel | paint that will go straight on to clean dry brass. I don't see any reason to | use Hammerite in this situation. |
Thanks. I always automatically think hammerite when it comes to metal.
Small hinges? Pretty much anything. If you're brush painting a wicker screen with the usual sort of oil-based domestic gloss, then that will be fine.
Clean the brass first to remove any oil on the hinges (acetone or nail polish remover on paper towel) and then lightly key the surface (if needed) with some wire wool. Then paint.
Brass has a bad reputation for taking paint and the usual advice to always use an acid-etch primer specifically for brass is a good one. Particularly for large areas with thin coats (sprayed?) and a high- quality surface needed afterwards. The best guide is a self-published book advertised in the Model Engineer magazine at present, "How not to paint a steam locomotive". There's someone with a _lot_ of experience in painting brass and its foibles!
For hinges though, things are easier. It's a smaller area with a thicker (brushed) coat of paint, so the adhesion problem is less trouble.
Hammerite is rarely a good idea. It has a reputation that's far beyond what its performance actually warrants. Even Smoothrite has the problem that it's too hard, too stiff and not sticky enough. Looks good, but comes off too easily.
A good model shop will have etch primer suitable for brass.
MBQ
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