i've now fitted the brackets on the wall and sat the cabinets on them.
i know that i can adjust the cabinets up and down with one screw, and in and out (from the wall) with the other screw. i have a spirit level to check the levels.
does anyone know the correct procedure for getting the cabinets in the exact position they should be?
they need to line up with the level line along the top but also need to be level from side to side and front to back. if anyones got the correct order of doing things please post it will save me a lot of messing about :p
If you are putting up two (or more) cabinets next to each other, get some carcase connectors like these:
Then, align the two cabinets carefully (preferably on a flat floor before placing on the wall). Clamp the cabinets together. Drill through from one to the other. I suggest doing this first with a small drill (e.g. 2.5mm) then enlarge to required size depending on carcase connector. Depending on the cabinets you might feel happy with two or four connectors.
Place cabinets onto wall. Put carcase connectors in and screw them up reasonably tightly. Now adjust the suspension bracket screws - not tight, just to take up the worst of the slack. I am no expert, but last tiem I did this, I did the horizontal adjustment first. Then I played around with the vertical (height). Finally, I adjusted the vertical (leaning in/out from the wall). I was lucky - they matched the walls quite well. But you might find the need to insert thin pieces of something behind the cabinet to take up gaps and allow all the screws to be tightened to a reasonable level.
Make sure that all the suspension brackets are tightened up otherwise the entire weight of the run of cabinets could be hanging from just the outermost wall plates.
Of course, someone else might be along in a moment to tell you a completely different eway of doing it.
If the top is level, as long as the cabinets are 'square' the sides must be level. The front to back level is adjusted by the in/out screw with a spacer under the bottom edge if necessary.
after pulling the top of cabinets all the way back the spirit level shows that the bottom is still further in. whats the best way to make the bottom of the cabinets stick out slightly? or is it not worth worrying as its only a slight slope
do you think i have fitted the wall cabinets too low? after i had fitted half of the brackets i read that you should aim for 50cm between worktop and bottom of wall unit, my gap is only 38/39 and here are some pics:
by a couple of inches or so. So even right-height wall units look low to me.) Only when you have other units (e.g. full height oven housing or larder unit) is the exact level of wall cabinets critical. But you might find that their current position simply feels wrong.
Difficult to judge the angle issue. Maybe a small spacer is required behind the bottom of the cabinets? But that can leave a gap down the side of the cabinet - photos are not as good as being there. The slope of the cabinet floor matters if things would roll out.
hi rod the reason i did the line at that height was to line up with the top of the chimney hood, i admit they seem a bit low, the electrical sockets are hidden slightly if you are standing up, but the actual shelf height seems ok to me. i am 5'6". not sure whether to do them all again or just leave them!!!
=================================== Appearance isn't everything. If they're at a height that allows safe access especially in corners and near the cooker then they're right for you.
my sockets are definitely higher than 150 which is why they are a bit hidden at the moment. i'm not having tiles but i think the 450 sounds about right. guess its worth another couple hours lifting them up instead of regretting it later...
I still find it easiest to screw a length of 2 x 1 to the wall and sit the wall units on that, especially if you're working alone. Only one thing to get level then. You can clamp the units together and get everything dead right before you do the plastic bolt connectors and gradually tighten the back fixings. Unless your wall is perfect some of the fixings won't be tight to the wall, but this doesn't matter. Pack the gaps out with scraps of ply/hardboard it they're over about 3mm. The worktop/wall unit distance is often dictated by the design of full length units, oven housings etc. Failing that, three complete tiles has evolved as the right distance, mainly because it's less work for the tiler. Similarly the 150 socket height :-)
I think I will raise them - the sockets are 24cm above the worktop instead of the better 15cm. So this makes it look even worse as it is because you cant see the sockets very well, they are almost completely hidden by the bottom of the wall units.. I think I'll raise them up to 45-50 cm above worktop, instead of 38 as they are now!
ok have drilled the new holes, the end result will be a 450 gap between worktop and bottom cabinet. cant do any more now as i need more rawl plugs the old ones are too damaged to use! damn.. have to wait til tomorrow afternoon
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