laminating - how long ?!

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All, I am about to embark on laminating my entire flat. The rooms are all basic rectangles, and the walls a pretty true. Total area is about 55m2 across 4 similarly sized rooms. I have never done any laminating in the past. Anyone care to estimate how long this may take ??
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Anyone
It totally depends on how competent you are at doing the job. If you're a trained joiner / carpenter, then three days from laying the underlay to complete edge finishing. If you're a complete novice, then it might take you a week, a month, a year, who knows ?
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Anyone
What high are the walls? (and how are you going to keep the boards on the ceiling?) (sorry) ;-)
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basic
4
I was thinking the same!!!!
mind you, there some nice laminated stuff around now in roll and sheet form (any colour you can think of) and you can wipe your flat clean!
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across
the
form
The mind boggles thinking what you would have to do to get the flat that dirty!
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Rob wrote:

just hope I remember to leave gaps for the windows....
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Although it would be handy for easy cleaning of the blood spatter from the other DIY jobs.
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What do you suppose the op is talking about? Operating theatres in hospitals don't have that. I should think he is talking about laminated flooring but I can see a vision of him with worktops instead of furniture. Yeeugh!
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It isn't laying the laminate that takes the time. The two big killers are removing/replacing the skirting boards and moving the furniture out of the way. Laying insulation boards takes no time at all. Cutting and laying the boards is really quick too, provided you have a circular saw (or jigsaw) standing by with a portable work bench.
Don't even consider doing the job without a proper hefty pulling bar. The cheapie ones you get in the "kits" should be thrown away.
I layed my old lounge in a day, including skirting boards. It was about 20m2. My "new" house is Edwardian and I wouldn't allow a piece of laminate within a mile of it. I spent a week with a sanding machine instead.
Christian.
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Christian McArdle wrote:

Having done the job twice (in different rooms) with the 'cheapie kits' I'd be interested to know where one can get the proper version. (Yes I do agree that the cheapie ones leave a lot to be desired!)
Take care,
John.
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On Mon, 29 Sep 2003 19:28:41 +0100, "Mr E"

So would I, but...

Can't agree completely, the one SWMBO got last week from local B&Q (spit) in a kit (of that and two packs of wedges), is actually holding up OK so far, but I got the feeling it /could/ be a little better still.
It seems different from the one featured on their web site though, and the wedges have changed slightly too by the looks of things.
I've not seen the old bare metal bar in the flesh (shown on their site) to know if they are physically different, but the one we got is dark gloss blue painted item with a protector pad or two on the base.
I added a "leading edge" scuff preventer (duct tape) after the first use left a minute amount of blue paint on the first board I fitted with it, been just fine since. (you just know they NEVER used one when that happens!)
I'd imagine a cast metal one could be about as good as it gets to be honest. Never seen a source for any like that yet.
Take Care, Gnube {too thick for linux}
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Got mine from B&Q (both the kit one and the "professional" one). In use, it is like comparing a Morris Minor with a MacLaren F1. Noisy as anything, though. Get ear defenders.
One little tap and the whole board is comprehensively snug with the previous.
Christian.
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On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:51:23 +0100, "Christian McArdle"

I get that result with the kit one, maybe I just "found the groove" as they say in tenpin? <shrug>
Take Care, Gnube {too thick for linux}
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Quite possibly. I found the kit ones needed a few bangs, and at various points on the board, rather than a simple tap halfway along with the meaty one.
Christian.
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Christian McArdle wrote:

reading the quick step instal guide, you should never try and place a board using a single hit - always perform several light taps at about 30cm intervals until the board fits snuggly into place.....
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But with the proper tool, a single light tap is all it needs. You probably do need a tap every 30cm using the toy one.
Christian.
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On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 15:03:04 +0000 (UTC), "NC"

We may be at crossed porpoises here; I'm only using the iron on the end of the last board in a row, since it's the "cut" end, and there's no room for a block. I'm using the screwfix tapping block along the long edges (except for the last row, where it won't fit of course).
I'm also using the tapping block on the ends of all boards but the last one in a row. Over time, I've got the "iron shot" down to one tap increasingly often, I think it just comes with practice! (yields a mildly satisfying smug feeling when it does it too! ;O)
The first 2/3/4 boards are for sure the worst and the first two rows of a room are also slightly more tricky than the rest IME. It all flows smoothly once they are down and snug with each other, and I've got a cunning plan for the first three now as well!
Take Care, Gnube {too thick for linux}
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Gnube wrote:

do tell your cunning plan - all advice and tips well received !
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wrote:

His only cunning plan is getting someone else to do the first three rows. :-))
(sorry, I just couldn't resist the temptation) :-))
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On Wed, 01 Oct 2003 09:07:20 GMT, "BigWallop"

OI You! ;O)

Quite! (makes mental note to self, BW must be persuaded to try harder in future!) ;O)
Take Care, Gnube {too thick for linux}
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