Is this good or bad practice. Should I install isolation valves on the ch flow and return and the dhw in/out, about 6 inches under the boiler connections (obviously making allowances for the filling loop and it's connectors, etc).
Haven't really thought through the benefits of this, or the cons (un-nessecary restrisctions right at the start of the runs, maybe), but just thought I'd check with the group.
I'm guessing that there's no real need?
Jon
If you buy a fixing jig for a boiler, I think most include all the isolation valves on the jig. If you add them separately, make sure you use full-bore valves. I found them useful whilst installing the system, and when trying to isolate the location of a leak (which turned out to be inside the boiler, and contrary to my initial suspicions, not in any of my plumbing;-).
Isolation valves should already be on the boiler. If you are inserting a strainer on the boiler return, the fit a "full bore" isolation valve either side so you don't need to drain down to clear the strainer. After commissioning clear the strainer one a week for two weeks , then once a month for a few months. By then the loose debris from the old system should have been picked up by the strainer. This crap which would have entered the boilers heat exchanger. Also have a strainer on the cold water main supply to the combi. Debris from the mains can enter too.
Apologies, just had a gander a the fixing plate/jig and there are indeed iso valves on all in/outlets except for the DHW out.
Jon
Note that whilst isolation valves are common on combi boilers those units also have the Pressure Relief Valve inside.
If using a plain heating boiler the PRV must go on the boiler side of any isolators.
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