Insulating a house having solid walls

Are you asking John Rumm to supply structural details of his local Sainburys?

Reply to
ARW
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As it happens I saw how they built it... bog standard cavity wall construction, rigid batt insulation between. The only unusual bit being the outer skin made with lots of half bricks to create the traditional bond pattern.

Reply to
John Rumm

n semi. The walls are plastered (not the original plaster), and wall-papere d.

be fixed by a proprietary adhesive. I would remove the wall paper. I aim t o use 1-inch board, being the minimum that would make a difference, but not consuming too much space on e.g. the stairwell.

Been there and done this

Reply to
rowing

n semi. The walls are plastered (not the original plaster), and wall-papere d.

be fixed by a proprietary adhesive. I would remove the wall paper. I aim t o use 1-inch board, being the minimum that would make a difference, but not consuming too much space on e.g. the stairwell.

Been there and done this

Firstly, if it is not the original plaster, watch out for any gypsum-based plaster that might have been put on and GET RID OF IT! It is likely to be h ygroscopic. I agree with the others to get rid of the plaster if you can - and the skirting board and the edge of the floorboards and put 1 or 2" of PU foam backed plaster board 3/8" on with plaster board adhesive and also t he external foam fixings of stainless steel pins inside 6" long rawlplug ty pe fixings with 2" discs on the end - they are normally a pink colour. Use 5 of these per 8 x 4 sheet then scrim and skim. warm as toast! Put on sk irting boards and picture rails and architraves with long screws thereafter . If you have any serious fixings eg shelves - put in plywood instead of t he plasterboard If you want to see pictures of how it is done let me know off line at mail at atics dot co dot uk

Reply to
rowing

better to batten wall first, plumb up battens and then fix boards to them .......... not sure dot n dab would work on old painted/papered plaster

Reply to
Rick Hughes

Surely it would be obvious by the brick bonding?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Not if it's rendered

Reply to
stuart noble

Are you saying there actually are Victorian cavity walls built like this?

I'd say it's a different thing - a present day architect playing around with the bond to fool people.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

.28

Victorians played about a lot with bonds, and yes there are snapped header cavity walls out there. They played about with bonds far more than people d o today. The myth that cavity walls didn't exist or were a real rarity in V ic times isn't really true.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Exactly where would I find one? I've worked on quite a few Victorian houses in London - all 9" (or more) solid walls

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Similarly in Cambridge. However I believe they were commoner in the west of the country (where they provided useful protection against damp).

Reply to
Martin Bonner

So strip the plaster even moreso... Battening will lose more room & create a nice void for the rodents to live in...

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

Coastal towns. My parent's house was cavity wall, completed 1902. My sister's was even earlier (about 1880 IIRC) and was cavity wall. It was about 100yards from the north sea.

Reply to
<me9

Cavities were standard for exposed & coastal properties. They were also used in many other areas, but as you point out they weren't in many areas too.

They played about so much with bonds that its not unusual to find more than one bond in just one wall, and common to find 2 or 4 bonds in one property.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

No, I am saying that have gone to the effort to make a new build look like it has 9" solid walls.

Indeed. And to be fair, they have done a nice job of it - it looks pretty authentic (if you ignore the whole too new and too straight bit)

Reply to
John Rumm

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