how would you get your concrete?

progress to date

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SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and top with

10mm so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu ft) ready to lay the bricks on their own mortar. So the way I see it I have these options

Readymix Bags of sand/stone/cement and hire a mixer do these cement lorries deliver in such small quantities? any other options? what would you do? TIA

Reply to
Vass
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morning!

nah not for 1 cubic metre mix it yourself or better with a mate - I did a cube with a mate last week in about 3 hours - levelled, washed up, drinking tea included

Get "All in 20mm concreting ballast" X 2 bulk bags, (plus a bit of your spare type1 if needed - [don't tell Nat Phil.:>)]),

10 bags cement (couple of extras if you prefer a "safety margin") hire a Mixer - 25 quid for a week! and hire a strong barrow - if you don't have a good one/don't mind giving it a workout....

Cheers JimK

Reply to
JimK

ah, cool, will see if someone will deliver this morning (doubtful but you never know) Ta

Reply to
Vass

Yes, eg

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down to 0.5 cu m

David

Reply to
Lobster

I've mixed quite a bit in a wheel barrow with a shovel when all else failed.

unless you are driving over the bloody edgings, you dont really need foundations. I built a retaining wall on just levelled off dirt and about 3 " of mortar using instead of footings concrete blocks laid sideways and tied with bow ties.

That's what I would do in your case. Simply dig down deep enough to lay concrete blocks on a mortar bed, them build brick on top with bow ties for strength.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Your message is garbled.

10mm of what? - if you are intending having decorative stone on top, with a brick edge all the way around as the final outcome, you are going about it the wrong way.

you don't need concrete or even bricks, you simply fill the entire space with mot leaving it 60mm short, whack down with a compactor, then lay block paving blocks all around the edge on mortar directly onto the mot, leave to set for a few days then fill in the remaining 60 - 70mm with whatever stone you are using.

10mm wouldn't last 5 minutes and the mot would be showing in no time. bricks aren't suitable for this purpose as they soak up water and then frost blows them to pieces.
Reply to
Phil L

yes I will be

Reply to
Vass

hmmm.. I'm driving over the blocks around the edge thats why I wanted footings (or so I thought) surely if I lay them on the Type 1, they will move in time after being driven over all the time?

10mm gravel/shingle will be the top layer on top of the type 1

Is this wrong then?

Reply to
Vass

Paving Expert says this is the right way too ? (I'm using blocks not bricks)

Reply to
Vass

If you are driving over them (which you didn't mention earlier) then they need to be concreted in place, but IME they will still move as the gravel area infil isn't substantial enough to keep them from doing so. That is to say, each time your wheels go over the blocks, they can move the blocks into the gravel because it's loose, and no amount of concrete underneath the blocks is going to prevent this because they don't adhere well to any cement/concrete....it's no problem stopping them moving up and down, it's side to side that you can't stop.

Gravel drives look great when they're first done but after a week most of the gravel is half way down the street, but it's your choice.

Reply to
Phil L

Aaaaaarrrrgggghhhh!

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes - use 20mm.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Gravel is great if you use 20mm & not 10mm and have 'edges'. Did mine 10 years ago. You get the odd bit walking but very little.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

aye and cats shit in 10mm - not 20mm though too big (unless you have pumas?)

Cheers JimK

Reply to
JimK

My cats shit in anything.

But prefer sharp sand.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

It's fine laid on a good base, *unless* you have small (or even larger) children about.

Reply to
<me9

20mm can be annoying too. I used to live in a house with 20mm and I had to park with the wheels about half a metre from the edge. Every time I went out, a load of stones would stick to the tyres at the contact patch, roll right round the top and fall off in two well defined piles where they next hit the ground in the middle of the footpath. I seemed to be forever sweeping.

Cheers,

Colin.

Reply to
Colin Stamp

Gravel is never optimal, except that's its reasonably good looking, reasonably long lasting and reasonably cheap.

Tarmac or concrete it ain't., not is it block paving

Gravel needs a bit of raking till its smashes down, by which time its likely going to have enough soil and weeds in it to need regular dosing with pathclear. Then eventually its all mud and needs another layer laid on top.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Says the man who doesn't put weed control fabric under the gravel.

I have about 40 m2 of gravel and it doesn't grow weeds except for below the bird feeder.

Of course the mud doesn't happen when you have a textile sheet under the gravel, well not for years.

Reply to
dennis

What more could you want? Also dead easy to maintain & repair.

Not if you use a fabric.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Up to a m3 is easy shovel & mixer job .......... I have done much larger quantities this way, but once you go over a m3 then ReadyMix comes into sensible option. MiniMix is cheaper if you only want 1 -3 m3 There is also another variant where they mix and you barrow ... can't remeber the name ... something like 'barrow mix'

That is good for small quantities ... they have mixer and ingredients on Truck ... they mix it, you wheel & lay ... no waste, no leftover

Reply to
Rick Hughes

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