How to glue glass?? !!

Hi Group, help please!

I want to build a glass-walled cube. One side removable/hinged. I will be using plate glass (6mm approx) The cube is to be 2 ft. square. So components are six pieces of plate glass each one 2ft x 2ft. Now, the problem is how to 'stick' the joints. I would prefer not to use any bracket supports on the joints - just 'glue'. Can it be done? What type of joint to make? (DIY of course - no melting of glass!!)

Dee

Reply to
Dee
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You didn't Google did you ? Thread a couple of months ago on "Glueing Glass"

"Plate" glass isn't used these days, and you wouldn't like the price anyway. Modern glass is all float glass. You need a couple of square metres, which will be pretty cheap, even with the edges polished. If you want it tempered, then that costs more and takes longer, but it's still affordable.

It is hard to find a glass supplier though. Most no longer cut glass, they just sell things from factories. Many aren't interested in anything other than standard windows, or profitable commercial work. You'll be doing a lot of phoning before you find a good one (I'd recommend Roman Glass in Bristol)

If you make them all exactly the same size, then it's hard to assemble. Adjust the sizes to compensate for the overlaps

Loctite 358

You'll also need hinges (stock items from a good supplier, like Isac Lord) They can be either glued or drilled. Get the glass supplier to drill the glass before they polish the edges.

That _is_ DIY. Last weekend I was plasma-cutting it.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I've seen fish tanks made using transparent silicone sealant to stick the bits together.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
nightjar

Who's fitting inside ?

Reply to
Mike

Nearly all fish tanks are made like that now (well certainly ones that you get in the home). The joints are good enough to hold in 200kg of water so I imagine they will be strong enough for whatever you need.

The sealant used in fish tanks has to be free of fungicides and able to handle constant submersion but I don't think there is any difference (glueing ability wise) between it and the stuff you can get in any DIY shed for a couple of pounds.

Graham

Reply to
doozer

Thanks Folks,

The resident will be a snake. So no water and no weight problem. Glazier still insists I use plate glass. It will be in a public area. So I guess just buy the right sizes (overlap reminder well taken Andy). Get holes drilled for the hinged side. Get that Loctite 358 (thanks Andy) stuff and go for it.

Dee

Reply to
Dee

In that case, use silicone. Easier to find and cheaper than the UV cure stuff, and you'll never notice the fillet amongst the snake bedding. I thought you were making furniture.

2' cube sounds pretty small though - what's the snake ?

Don't be so sure about "no weight". I've seen a couple of vivaria where people have built them light "because they weren't full of water", then cracked them by putting in a big basking rock.

He probably means tempered glass.

In that case you probably do want tempered glass. At home I wouldn't bother. For a big or venomous snake, use laminated glass. I know a reticulated python (now a handbag, evil little bastard) that used to break the front panel out of its tank when it fancied a walk.

Get a sheet of 6mm MDF first and make a prototype. MDF is cheaper and easier to cut than glass.

You'll also want some ventilation. As you want some degree of radiant heat to permit basking, then there's a problem that an unventilated box will be a snake baker (even rattlesnakes get heatstroke, if they can't hide). I'd think about gluing glass strips to the top edge and spacing the lid up on it.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Then I would recommend laminated glass, which will much better protect the snake from the public.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
nightjar

And a "No Parseltongues" sign ?

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Ive seen bloody great glass walls in ditzy reception areas stuck the same way too.

Epoxy works, but is ugly.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

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