How to attach a PRV?

I'd be grateful for some advice please.

I removed a faulty PRV from my combi boiler, but when I went to connect up the new one, I found I could not tighten it so as to make it both watertight as well as having the outlet point pointing in the right direction to attach the overflow pipe directly below it.

So, how does one limit the number of turns on the PRV so as to make it both watertight and point in the right direction, please?

Cheers

Reply to
saka
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phone for a plumber

Reply to
A Plumber

Now why didn't I think of that.

As you appear to be less than gainfully employed at present, I would imagine demand for your services in people's homes and businesses is just as valued as it is around this forum (HINT: D-I-Y = Do It Yourself).

hth

Reply to
saka

connect

Loctite 577 thread seal. Brilliant stuff. Fittings can be finger tight, and when it sets it's rock hard.

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Old way - pack it with just enough fibre washers to stop in the right place. (Old, old way was the same, but with wound hemp.)

New way - don't tighten it for a seal, apply a PTFE thread sealer (NB

- one for sealing pipework, not just locking threads) beforehand.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

My blowlamp has been hung up for a few years now, and though I have fitted lots of combi's I have never had to renew the PRV. Is it possible to alter the overflow pipe to suit the valve?

Reply to
A Plumber

Thanks for the tip. Useful to know for another project. ;-)

Reply to
saka

Thanks for the tip. Assume it's watertight too? Useful to know for another project, perhaps (see below). ;-)

Reply to
saka

8< Off to B&Q and got myself a 1/2" flanged brass nut, fibre washer and and PTFE tape. Job done! ;-)

Thanks for taking an interest.

Reply to
saka

8<

Had to change the PRV, as expansion vessel diaphragm had collapsed and it was silently dumping water outside through the PRV. Looked a bit manky on the inside so to be safe, decided for £25 notes to just swap it out instead.

Cheers.

Reply to
saka

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