Oh? so a steel rail that is simply one piece of steel with no joins, doesn't suffer strains on heating and cooling?
Actually I do. If you are losing 100W of heat into the boiler room and
100W in the pipes to put 100W into the room you actually want heated, you are spending more on gas or oil than you would be on electricity.
I've just made my kitchen and futility room a seperate zone. Half a dozen plumbing fittings plus 10 metres of 10mm plastic pipe in addition to the zone valve and wireless thermostat. Cost about £100.
Odd thing after installing -- thermostat set to 17deg and room temperature never fell below 22deg. Eventually noticed heaters were cycling hot. I'd left the wireless thermostat on the default channel, and presumably it was trying to satisfy e neighbour's demand for heat. Changed channel and all fine now.
Now will the neighbour pay the gas bill?
NT
this was addressed before
Presumably the boiler is in one of these rooms? If so, the easiest option. The OP wants this for a box room. Likely as far from the boiler as possible when sod's law applies. And that will need new pipe runs to it to zone things.
Of course some are happy with surface mount pipes running everywhere. I'm not. So it would be a great deal of work to do that here.
They also don't like the corona discharge from around 33kV up.
Yes. I suspect the point is that you aren't expected to be paid expenses to use your principle residence, so if you are, then that part doesn't count as your principle residence anymore.
It's something that several past employers who will pay for heating etc if you are a home worker have warned about. I've never looked into the details - I've been a home worker for most of the last 10 years, but I've never claimed things like heat and lighting. I guess it's OK if you're renting, but IANAL.
Insurance is another one on two sides. They all seem to be OK with SOHO now (wasn't the case when I started). However, you still have to be careful if your employer provides any expensive equipment which might make your home more of a target, even if your own insurer isn't insuring it. Back in the days when we had expensive Sun workstations provided, we were recommended to declare these to our home insurer and Sun would pay any resulting extra charge, although we were not allowed to have our insurer actually insure the company equipment. (There are also complications with car insurance if you carry expensive company equipment in your own car, which I used to, but we don't do that anymore.)
It's down to the boiler design.
I have a 20 year old Potterton Profile which is designed to cycle as it can't modulate, and does so very efficiently with no waste in the cycle.
OTOH, I have a 10 year old condensing Keston which is designed to moduate down to 7kW, but cycles below that. The cycling in this case is not at all efficient or well designed, and it would be bad practice to design a system which relied on this boiler cycling to generate
Depends on the boiler.
Potterton Profile probably gives off up to 200W from its case (that was the typical value for boilers of that age).
When I installed a condensing Keston, I tried to find the figure in the data sheets (to calculate how much extra the radiator in that room needed to add). I couldn't find it, so just assumed 200W. That turned out to be a mistake. In the Keston, any heat which leaks out through the heat exchanger is recycled back into the burner air inlet, so the case doesn't get hot, and it doesn't heat the room. I doubt any more than 20W leaks out, and that's only after the burner has been on for a long time.
Good insulation and a BIG PC ;-)
Sorry, misread that as a major source of inefficiency...
i'm looking for an under desk heating mat like this canadian one, will start a new thread...
Try one of those small and cheap electric heaters... not the fan controlled ones. The coil or radiator like heaters should solve your problem in a few minutes every 3 or 4 hours. You can even temperature control them these days.
-John.
If there is an option to get the wiring around (12V will do), a resistor added to the head of each TRV can easily close off the unwanted radiators. Then a wireless (mobile) stat would work fine.
Not what I'd do, but it is a cheapish option.
Ours actually does have wired timer/stats and motorised valves per room. All run through relays and 12V so that the stats could be wired in alarm cable up the edges of doorframes, so as to avoid redecorating the whole house. The boiler does sometimes short cycle, but I can live with that - it's all been running that way for over eight years now and the boiler boiler is 10 years old.
SteveW
In a previous post, I've suggested that one option for doing this is a low voltage supply, heating resistors added to the heads of the TRVs in the other rooms.
SteveW
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