It's very common practice these days to instal u/g service cables in a plastic pipe installed by the builder/developer.
When the system was first trialled about 30/40 years ago, a fair bit of Swarfega was used to lubricate the cable as it went into the duct, particularly if the duct was laid with some tightish bends.
You are stupid. There have been no deflections just your inability to understand the difference between an ocean and a tank of water. So you being simple post the formulae for CO2 into carbolic acid and then refuse to believe there are other process at work in CO2 absorption in oceans. The reality is that you are just an insane stalker that thinks its big to try and prove someone else is wrong even though all it shows is how stupid you are being. Now grow up before I have to use my kill file.
If you're on a budget look out for the Lidl cutters, pliers and wire stripper set at around this price. Perfectly adequate for domestic wiring. You should really keep these tools for wiring use only as abusing things like cutters isn't a good idea if you want them to remain sharp.
Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:
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Or this
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can be had for a tenner, eg:
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it's unclear if it can safely do continuity checks on potentially live AC circuits. As a voltage tester though, it's probaby reasonable.
I think the conclusion is that for basic wiring, I personally would have little hesitation in recommending that one should have under 25 pounds worth of tools in order to vastly reduce risk to life and limb.
Hopefully at the weekend I will get round to supplying very generic looking photos of some of the tools I've got so that the Wiki doesn't needlessly portray the image that one must buy the "best" tools before even starting but rather that one needs *adequate* tools.
Having a couple of guys buggering around for an hour trying to get cable through a tightly bent duct is a lot more expensive than slapping a couple of handfuls of Swarfega onto the cable as it was pushed into the duct.
Right, loads of good stuff included now, and a bunch of photos as well:
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more input for some of the sections on cable support, running wires under floor voids (and in particular issues like supporting cables, or letting them sit on the sub floor etc) etc
I did promise, so here goes... Sorry, I don't have enough bits lying around to do photos. If you think some would be helpful, I could put it on the list of things to do?
John Rumm coughed up some electrons that declared:
By section/
================================================= Grommits - you beat me to it ;->
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================================================= Minimum bend radii: [Can I suggest some extra info that I've looked up, edit as much or as little to blend in as you wish]
Care must be taken not to bend a cable too tightly. Over bending a cable can crack the insulation or strain the conductors, causing the conductor to cut through the insulation.
OK, so how much an we bend a cable? The maximum bend that can be put in a cable is described as the "minimum bend radius" at the inside edge of the cable. A simple way to imaging this is:
If a cable may have a minimum bend radius of 30mm: then take a cylinder of radius 30mm and bend the cable neatly around the outside of the cylinder. The cable is now bent as tightly as permitted. The overall angle of the bend, whether it be 90 degrees, 45 degrees or anything else is not relevant here.
So what does this mean in real life? The most common cable for house wiring is BS6242Y, or "Twin and Earth" (it might also be BS6243Y "Triple and Earth in some parts of the lighting or heating systems).
Table 4E of the IEE Onsite Guide (17th Edition) states that for thermoplastic PVC cable with circular or circular stranded copper conductors, we may use the following calculation to determin the minimum bend radius:
a) If the overall diameter of cable (D)
Did it on Tuesday, got a rebate (not actually expected, PAYE wobbulation I guess, so double BONUS!!!) BACS'd to the bank on Friday. Wow... I'll have to have a lie down now.
IIRC, there is also a figure somewhere for the max unsupported drop that is allowed...
Yup, apparently if you c*ck up your records such that you tell them what you got paid one year, but what you paid in tax the previous year, and it coincides with a year where you paid yourself less the second year than the first, they send you loads of money. Shame is they want it back when you highlight the error, but still its an unorthodox way of getting a loan out of hector! DAMHIKIJD
John Rumm coughed up some electrons that declared:
I hope not ;->
I think, due to switching jobs mid year, (both PAYE) I overpaid somewhere along the line. Possibly a coding error on the second job. Just goes to show it's worth checking yer tax. Maybe I should check the last 4 years too, if I can find all the P60s :)
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