I wanted to see if I could actually draw something useful with sketchup for design or building purposes. So I picked project to see if I could illustrate it that way.
Rather than just waste my time I thought I may as well burden yours with it as well ;-)
The results:
good.
I wouldn't dream of editing your wiki as I'm afraid all I know about door hanging comes from watching a pro at work. However, personally I've always fitted linings myself in their final position, complete with architraves, and had the walls plastered, before getting the doors hanged just before decorating - that was the way I was told - so am interested to read your method, ie basically fitting linings and foor together. Is that more 'usual'?
I don't see anything in there about ensuring everything is plumb - FWIW the trick my joiner showed me when positioning the linings was to look through the doorway from left to right, lining up the opposite vertical edges of the lining - ie, looking from 'A', line up B with C. Works very well.
A B
-------------| |------------- top view | doorway |
-------------| |------------- C
David
trouble.
It seems to be quite powerful once you can persuade it to do what you want. Its the last bit that is tricky!
Depends on where you are starting from really. You can fit the things in a variety of orders as needs dictate. If you save the architraves til last (or remove them first) then it gives you more scope to adjust the fit later.
Another approach is to fit and set in stone the frame, and then "shoot in" the door to match any peculiarities of the frame (i.e. planing a taper on the door if the frame narrows a little etc). This is a useful technique when refitting a door to an old existing frame that can't easily be tweaked, but takes longer (and does not get as neat a result) for new frames and doors. (it also means you are stuffed if you ever try to move the door to a different frame!)
I touched on that in the fixing the lining bit: "Use packing pieces behind the lining if necessary to get the sides parallel and upright. Keep the top rail horizontal" but did not cover checking for skew like your method will check. Perhaps I ought to add a note about that.
If your wall is ok then it ought to work out about right just by centring the lining on the wall, if the wall is not, then you may be better off taking some of the adjustment up with the stop fitting rather that all at the lining fitting stage, or else you may end up with a step from lining to plaster
Yup. Checking B and C are plumb on both axis is a good first step, but you are right that "eyeing it up" is always a good check since often stuff like this is better looking right rather than actually being exactly right.
any particular aim in mind. It's nice to see what can be achieved with some hard work.
I was looking for something like that to check what I was doing was right. (fortunately it was) but I still have another 7 doors to hang so I have bookmarked the page.
:¬)
Thankyou, and the graphics make it sooooo much easier to follow.
Pete
--
Yup, that was the problem I had at first... without something worthwhile to draw you soon get board of making odd shapes and poking holes in them! ;-) (bit like learning a new programming language or similar technology without having a real problem to solve)
|! This is a useful |!technique when refitting a door to an old existing frame that can't |!easily be tweaked, but takes longer (and does not get as neat a result) |!for new frames and doors. (it also means you are stuffed if you ever try |!to move the door to a different frame!)
Having only refitted ill fitting doors rather than fitting them, a bit on this, by someone who knows more about it than me, would be useful. Doors expand when they get wet in winter. They stick when the frame moves slightly. etc. etc.
A page on fitting 5 lever locks in wooden doors would be useful, I have done at several but never been totally satisfied with the cosmetic result. The security results have always been good, but I doubt that they would have withstood police with those two handed hammers.
I think credit lies with the workman rather than the tool.
Timely too as I am about to tackle the job for the first time ever (but then I am only 50-something).
One point of detail. You say "The chamfer wants to slope from the front of the door (as looked at from the opening side) to the back." But is that slope *up* or slope *down*? I thought the picture give the answer until I realised that if the picture showed the door from the other side it would not show the slope at all. And while I think I can work it out (and check the answer with the help of bits of paper stuck in the door) reassurance would be welcome.
What patience! I always think of it as a 3d tool but this shows how useful it is for basic illustration. Is there somewhere that hosts Sketchup files so we can rotate?
"Tony" wrote
Seconded
Phil
Well google hosts (or at least indexes) loads of completed component and objects. Having said that, I suppose there is no reason not to slap sketchup files in the wiki for download if they are DIY related.
(I think I need to improve the discipline of workflow in sketchup though. I found it quite easy to do a bit of the drawing and then grab a
2d snapshot of the picture I wanted, then modify the model some more and get to the next photo - much like I was doing the task for real and photographing as I went along. The problem with this method is that you lose the intermediate 3d models and keep just the photos).
I think John is a bastard as I now have no excuses not to fit the new door and frame at the girlfriends this weekend. I wanted to watch Sheff United v Wigan at the pub.
Thanks a lot for the excellent wiki.
Adam
And thirded - well done that man.
Yup, I was not convinced that was clear enough as I wrote it, even with the illustration (and yes you are right, I did need to show it from the other side so as not to hide the chamfer).
I have just updated it to:
"The chamfer wants to slope from the front of the door (as viewed from the opening side) down to the back. So if you were looking down on the top of the door it will have a slightly trapezoidal profile."
That's now much clearer, thanks. But dare I suggest a belt-and-braces (or, if you prefer, pedantic and anal retentive) amendment so it reads ".....a slightly trapezoidal profile with the back narrower than the front"? (I don't dare to amend the Wiki direct.)
In fact I did actually add a little more than I quoted above - I snipped too soon. It currently also mentions that the narrow bit of the trapezoid goes at the back against the stops.
On Fri, 11 May 2007 03:59:27 +0100, John Rumm mused:
site I'm quoting on. I gave up, I got a reasonable looking warehouse bit (big square, not too hard) dodgy looking store bit (sort of rectangle thing that did not look anything like what it was meant to) and a fence that looked like it had been hit by a low flying jet.
I'll just draw up a spec and paint pictures with words, as per usual.
Top marks for the excellent diagrams.
Ah, but just think of all the nice things your girlfriend will have no excuses for not doing with you now you have been so helpful and made such a big sacrifice for her.
You might get a home-made steak pie for your tea.
Owain
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