Floor tile question

What's the expert (aka "easy") way of removing floor tiles which have been stuck down with glue?
The last time I did this particular job (some years ago) I ended up having to use a paint stripper heat gun combined with a paint stripping scraper to remove the glue, after ripping the tiles off as far as possible, working on my hands and knees for hours on end. However that was a wooden floor so maybe the glue bonded differently. A horrible job!
PoP
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That sound about right.

What kind of floor are the tiles in question adhering to?
Mary

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More to the point what kind of floor tiles?
G
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On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 22:25:17 -0000, "Wellard"
I believe it's suspended concrete - like found on so many new houses.

Regular 12in square vinyl jobbies - this is a kitchen floor where the tiles are to be replaced with cushioned flooring.
Part of me is thinking along the lines of leaving the tiles in place and putting the cushion flooring on top. However cushion flooring tends to be quite thick so I'm not sure if that would necessitate trimming something off the bottom of the kitchen door.
Just considering all the angles at the moment - I don't want to start ripping the tiles up and then wish I'd left them alone!
PoP
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PoP wrote

Under loose cushion flooring I'd definitely leave the original vinyl tiles in place. They'll be stuck down with horrible gooey black bitumen adhesive which you'll never be able to get rid of completely short of relaying the screed, and they'll probably be wall to wall, under any units. Removing them will only gain you 3 or 4mm anyway. If bits of the vinyl tiles are missing or loose this needs to be made good flush using Ardit or similar latex.
Peter
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If you really want to remove the tiles there is a machine on the market designed especially for this purpose. It's called a floor tile remover, which is similar to a 9 inch angle grinder but fitted with a wide reciprocating blade attachment. Your local tool hire store may hire them out, mine does.
Trouble is, once you've removed the tiles, your left with the adhesive to contend with. In my case it's black bitumen painted onto concrete, save chipping it away with a hammer and bolster chissel does any one have a good idea for removing the bitumen? Angle grinders fitted with disks or brushes make a serious mess and the smell lingers.
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wrote:

I suspect that removing, plaing and rehanging the door would be easier than fighting with the tiles and then preparing the floor ...
Mary

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In that case leave the tiles alone, you've got a level base there. Taking them up will involve re-levelling all the floor first, big job in comparison. ..
SJW A.C.S. Ltd.
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not difficult to do.
Regards, NT
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PoP <> wrote

This sounds ominously familiar. I'm just doing the same in my kitchen.
I'm going quarry tiles, so i'm taking the floor back to the screed. However, i'm leaving the (old) vinyl tiles down under the units, & tiling through under the Fridge and Washing machine.
I'm managing to get them up with a bolster chisel & club hammer, I think they were originally put down with contact adhesive, which is coming up nicely [1]
Cheers,
Paul.
[1] Well, if you can call brown and gloopy 'nice'
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On 12 Feb 2004 04:30:18 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@technologist.com (Zymurgy) wrote:

The vinyl tiles are coming up with a bolster chisel and club hammer? That's what I wanted to hear!
However I'm definitely not ruling out leaving the vinyl tiles in place and putting cushion flooring on top. Sod it, whatever's easiest gets my vote.
Sh*t, I must be developing into a real tradesman with those sorts of thoughts. I'm a celebrity, get me outta here.... ;)
PoP
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PoP <> wrote

Yep, it slips in between the floor and the tile and doesn't damage the floor if you use a wide-ish (3"-ish) & blunt chisel and hammer sideways, not down obviously !

:-) I needed the depth as the new tiles are pretty thick.

"how can I bodge this and get away with it" ;-)
Anyway, can you send me an email if your return addy isn't valid. I have a bit of work to put your way if you have a spare few days.
Cheers,
Paul.
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