Yup, alas now verboten for thermal bridging reasons. I recall the first time I saw a modern cavity closer - quite underwhelming it was! Skimpy bit of plastic with some plasticy foam glued too the back. They are not cheap either.
Good use for all those 50mm thick xtratherm offcuts from the stud walling then?
I have a bulk bag of these which I'm loathe to throw in the skip, I have even considered chucking them through the wood chipper to produce loose loft insulation.
AJH
Would be easy enough to fabricate - just need a length of something flat with a lip on one side and stick some insulation to it.
e.g.:
My brick-returned closures still have a 3/4" gap with a sheet of DPC in. Can't imagine it's that much of a thermal bridge - well, no worse that the double glazed window in the same hole.
The modern system is annoying at it does restrict where the window or door can go...
Just wondering - any reason not to foam up th cavity edge with PU expanding?
some foam expands 10 times, some 2 times, there can be a problem where the expansion warps the window framm, and the sash doesnt close.
some is more waterproof than others.
[g]
The foam shouldn't be exposed to water as such. It's just a gap filler and adhesive. If it's exposed to water it will also likely be exposed to sunlight, which it doesn't like. I cut it back a bit then run a cement fillet round the frame which also looks better. Then a bead of silicone between the fillet and the frame.
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
Without going into all the trials and tribulations of some double glazing I had fitted, here is the quick synopsis.
Howling gales and flexible frames on the windows and patio doors in the lounge. Filled gaps of up to 1 1/2" with foam all around the frames and now no gales and everything feels very firm and solid. That was about 5 years ago and no problems so far, as I was having the render replaced soon after I foamed then it was all water/sunlight proofed as Dave suggested.
I've got two large UPV windows self installed (including opening up the aperture and fitting a new lintel) using the above method. Which IIRC was in the Screwfix instruction leaflet. The oldest more than 10 years ago - and absolutely no problems. But I did at first have reservations about how well foam would hold things. Think it may of been on here I was told not to worry. ;-)
Probably not - although it would be harder to ensure consistent compliance with building regs I suppose. You would also need some flat material to actually close the gap and leave a nice finish to set the window into.
Generally it does not "push" that much if constrained. It will only expand 10 times if free to do so. So over fill a window edge and it will spill out the gaps, but won't distort the window frame.
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember "Dave Plowman (News)" saying something like:
Argh! Not you too!
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