A mate of mine's boiler has developed a leak. It is leaking from the heat
exchanger and is coming out fairly fast(ish). The boiler has got 4 pipes
coming out of it, but we are sure that it is not a combi. I'm a bit comfused
about the 4 pipes, I was under the impression he should only have 2 (feed
and return), so has anyone got any ideas what this is? I have had a look
online, but couldn't see a replacement like this.
Also, they have has a quote for fitting a new boiler (is a heat exchanger
something you can replace? or is this not a starter?) rated at 75000 btu's
(not sure what make) for £1200, is this reasonable for swapping a boiler
over? (I know it's hard to say without seeing it, but is this in the ball
Cheers in advance.....
Many older boilers had 4 connections - to facilitate separate hot water and
heating circuits - usually with gravity circulation for the HW and pumped
circulation for the CH.
Is this what your mate has got? If HW uses gravity circulation, one pair of
pipes is likely to be 28mm, compared with 22mm for the CH (or the imperial
equivalent of 1" compared with 3/4").
Thanks Roger, this sounds about right, he says that 2 pipes are bigger. How
would you go about replacing this? Can you replace like with like or can you
not get these anymore?
My Thorn M series boiler is like the one Roger describes. Rubber gaskets are
used to seal the chest and block where the pipes connect. They fail every now
and then and need replacement. It must be quite ancient having been converted
from town gas to natural gas well before we moved in and we have been here 21
years. My local gas spares supplier stocks the gaskets.
You could find a simple low cost repair is all that is needed.
I'm not sure how many (if any) modern boilers have 2 pairs of connections. I
suppose you can still run two 2 circuits off one pair as long as you split
them *very* close to the boiler - and avoid any nasty bends on the gravity
If you do keep a gravity cicuit, you should at least put a zone valve in it
to convert it to a C-plan system (see
That way you can have independent control over the HW and CH.
Better still to convert it to fully pumped if you can (see S-plan or Y-plan
in the above reference).
Errr, dunno, dunno, and dunno!
Bearing in mind, that my mates idea of wiring in an outside light would be
to put a plug on it and run it through the window when needed, I haven't
been able to get much info out of him!
I will post back when I have been round there!
Right, it is a GlowWorm SpaceSaver (?) 75.
Does this help at all? I have found a website that sells parts and they have
a heat exchanger for £530 which seems a bit steep considering the age of the
boiler and its likelyhood to pack up again.
Get rid. old, inefficient, expensive to run, etc. go condensing. Ideal
Icos or Isar. The Isar is a combi, so it can heat the cylinder and the
shower run through the water section giving a power shower.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
Version: 6.0.524 / Virus Database: 321 - Release Date: 06/10/2003
I had one of those until just over a year ago. It wasn't bad in its
time but not very efficient at about 65% SEDBUK rating.
Items started failing - first thermcouple (cheap), then thermostat
(expensive for what it was). I had planned to exchange it anyway
and did so before anything else went.
I certainly wouldn't spend anything like £500 on a boiler of this age
and type. This is most of the way towards a nice new condensing
boiler like a Keston Celsius or an Ideal Icos.
Since I replaced mine with a condensing model, gas consumption has
reduced by 25-30% of previous amounts, so depending on use, the
payback can be quite short even though the condensing products cost
slightly more than non-condensing. These have SEDBUK efficiencies of
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.