Harry Bloomfield wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@NOSPAM.tiscali.co.uk:
I've just learned that there are companies that de-mist sealed units without removing the glass. They drill holes, in opposite corners, then inject a liquid coating to the inside surfaces which prevents future condensation forming. They then drain out the liquid, seal the holes, job done. I'd prefer to do it myself though. It looks like a simple operation, with the right equipment and materials.
A
Depends on the type of window...
Generally there is a rebate in the frame on one side, and then a glazing bead that is fixed on the other - sandwiching the sealed unit between them. The more competent window fitters try to put the removable bead on the inside so that burglars will have an easier time getting out than in ;-)
With uPVC frames the beads are plastic mouldings with a rubber seal along the the back edge. To remove one, stick a flat bladed scraper down between the bead and the glass, and leaver it out from the frame. Its easiest if you pick the long edge of the window and start in the middle of the bead.
Indeed. You need to either reseal the whole thing in a way that'll last, or else have it unsealed with the air path leading to the outside, not the interior. The latter is easier.
NT
snipped-for-privacy@care2.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
That's the option that I'm thinking of trying. What would be best - two small (say 4mm) holes in opposite corners, or what? What kind of drill should be used? Or would a small grindstone bit be better? Anyone had any experience of drilling through glass?
A
Had a cold caller recently trying to get me to replace my existing units with argon-filled. He was adamant that these would "lose no heat at all". When I suggested that this was against the laws of physics, he was unable to comprehend the problem.
Similarly, when I suggested that any marginal improvement in performance would have no chance of paying for itself in my lifetime, he seemed unable to cope with the concept.
Don't think he was really cut out for the job.
Chris
How do you get 'warm dry air' ?
Jim Hawkins explained :
By recirculating it through a box, which is filled with dry silical gel.
In message , Al Shahadie writes
You may want to check what sort of glass it is. My patio doors are toughened, I know this as the have shattered a couple of times in 15 years with stones from the mower. I'm no expert, but I don't think drilling these would be a good idea.
I had some glazed units replaced recently and recall that it cost, on average, about £25 a unit, just for the glass. Much less faff than drilling and blowing air through etc. Now having seen how it is done it is certainly a DiY job in future.
Have you asked your local glazier for a price for replacing the unit? It may well be so cheap that messing around drilling glass yourself just isn't worth it. And, yes, I know this is uk.d-i-y...
"Jim Hawkins" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@supernews.com:
Hair dryer, on a dry day? The one I have would be easy to attach a flexible tube to...
A"Mr Pounder" wrote in news:k34hqb$5s4$1 @dont-email.me:
interested to read their quote if/when it arrives.
A
There are loads of companies that do this sort of thing. If they are a long way from you they will not want to know.
This subject comes up regularly.
Here's one post on the subject I've saved:-
From: Stuart Grant Subject: Re: c> Anyone tried a different, cheap, successful method - without replacing > the units? >
Yeah, takes a while though. Problem is that the aluminium spacers are sealed to the glass, but the corner joints in the spacers are not sealed, allowing moisture in after a while. You need to take the unit out of the frame and lay it flat. Remove the duck tape round the edge and carefully open up the back of the spacer at the corners. You should then be able to poke out the silica gel dessicant and regenerate it in an oven, if it hasn't set into one solid immovable lump, in which case you'll just have to leave it. To remove the moisture from the airgap, I used a cylinder vac that blows and sucks, with a spare hose and a very clean dust bag filled with dry rock salt, as sold for water softeners. The hoses were taped to opposite corners to circulate the air in the unit through the salt to extract the water. To test for dryness, switch off and lay a bag of frozen peas on the unit. No mist forms if the air inside is dry. Re-seal the unit with silicone mastic and make sure the seal goes glass to glass all round including the corners. If you manage to make a perfect seal here, your unit will then last indefinitely. Replace the duck tape all round to protect from knocks, not to seal it.
Stuart Grant
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk:
Stuart, Thank you for that. It's good to read a working procedure with all the finer details. The rock salt in the vacuum bag is a clever idea. I may just have a go at this...
A
Don't know if they really bother with dry air, but the spacers contain desiccant. By the time it mists up, it's been leaking long enough for the desiccant to have saturated and stopped working.
Most common cause of seal failure in double glazed units is the edge of the units sitting in a puddle in the frame, caused by the frame drainage not working. The units should be sitting on spacers to lift them clear of the drainage channels, and the channels need to be able to drain out. (Note that the outside frame seals against the glass are not expected to be waterproof, and some water is expected to get into the frame, but it must be able to drain away.)
snipped-for-privacy@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel) wrote in news:k35i5a$9ip$2 @dont-email.me:
That's useful to know. Thanks for that. I will drill a coupla drainage holes if necessary...
I'm still hoping someone can advise on the best drill bit for drilling through glass. They pros who cure misted units by injecting demister appear to use some kind of large dremmel-like tool with some kind of bit that looks like grind-stone material or similar, about 5mm dia.
Thanks to all for the replies. You guys are the usenet's best!
A
Depending on how many times you want to use the 'drill' (it's actually a grinding device rather than a conventional twist drill) then either use a cheapie 'dremel-accessory' diamond burr, or a proper diamond core drill (hollow tube with diamonds embedded - more expensive).
The core drill is best used in a drill press, and both types of drill need water for lubrication / cooling - otherwise you'll find that the diamonds will become separated from the 'drill' and you won;t get anywhere.
In stained / fused glass, I build a round dam (Blu-tack) around the site of the hole, and fill it with water (or immerse the whole piece in water if it's small enough). Use a drill press (fairly slow speed) and work in short bursts, allowing the 'drill' to cool and adding fresh water as necessary.
If you're trying to do it in situ then it will be more difficult to keep the water where you need it.
If you're unlucky and the glass is toughened then it'll shatter. Eye protection, gloves etc might be a good plan..
Seems like a lot of effort when replacement sealed unit are cheaply available..
Adrian
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