As the replacement part is readily available I take it that it should be possible to take the existing one out and put a new one in. Does anyone know if it is a case of removing just the solenoid coil or the complete valve body?
-- rbel
In article , rbel writes
Usually the complete valve, the coil is frequently staked on but it's still not a particularly difficult job.
Very occasionally you find that the valve is directly replaceable with a (far cheaper) washing machine valve. On one I've fixed, it looked like a custom valve but it was a wash m/c one with an extra flange that clipped on and could be swapped over. Although I think shower ones have better coils to stand a more continuous duty.
Just had a solenoid fail on our Triton 100E shower - it was only the coil which had gone open circuit. The complete valve is available as a spare from 'Shower Spares' for about £34 plus pp plus VAT, but I removed an identical coil from a washing machine inlet valve and used that. Here's one similar on ebay for just over a fiver. The coil clips on and easily comes off with a flat blade screwdriver inserted between the body and coil and then twisted.
Very many thanks. Your response jogged my memory and I have just replaced the coil with what appears to be an identical type that had been lurking in my 'may possibly come in useful' box. The shower is now functioning again.
-- rbel
I picked up on the point made above about washing m'c valve coils not liking long duty cycles - it could well be that shower use doesn't fall into that classification.
I use these valves for my greenhouse watering and pond topping up. Twice the pond one has failed - gone O/C - and it was only after the second time that I realised that it was while the system was running over winter and had frozen up - the pond water dropped, the sensor called for water and the poor valve was running for maybe several days before it gave up. Rather obviously I now switched off in the winter.
Rob
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