I know that if an electrical connection is to be plastered over it must be crimped or soldered.
Could someone please provide a link to a suitable joining piece (either crimp or solder).
My screwfix catalogue seems to only show standard crimp connections.
Any advice on regulations regarding this type of joint would also be helpful.
Thanks Steve.
I don't actually understand your posting. Screwfix -other suppliers are available- supply Crimps AWG 22-18, 16-14, 12-10 (insulated terminal) and mm² 0.5-1, 1.5-2.5, 4-6 (insulated terminal). these crimps _must_ be 'crimped' using a specified crimping (distorting) force to assure connectivity - this is achieved by utilising a ratchet action cramping tool: see;- id=70036&ts=02860
Hmm... That link didn't work for me - but I think you meant...
OK thanks for that.
Apart from the specified clamping force, these just look like the standard crimps that I have been using for years for bodges on old cars.
Once the connection is crimped, and presumably, insulated with heat shrink tubing, is there anything to do other than plaster over?
Does the joint need mechanical protection i.e. a metal box with a cover before plastering? Or is the plastering deemed to be enough?
How about the soldering option. Is a suitably twisted pair of wires, to ensure mechanical strength, then soldered and insulated as above OK?
Sorry, too many questions!
Steve
>
They are the same. The differance is that with mains you don't bodge it. You use the proper tool
No
Provided it is the correct zone it doesn't need additional protection
In principle yes. But it is not easy to use heat-shrink sleeving in this circumstance. You need to take the outer sheath back a fair way to get the sleeving onto the inner core. And there is a danger that the heat of soldering will shrink the sleeving prematurely
Yep, and dont try and pull the heatshrink onto the joint while its still warm or it'll shrink and grab like a bugger!! and then its time to curse and recut the joint to sleeve another piece of heatshrink. (from experience, and more than once !!)
No, I absolutely don't want to bodge anything, I am trying to undo past bodges! I just thought that there would be a special set of connectors that were deemed to be OK. I will buy the correct tool and crimp the connections properly.
This connection will be made in a hall, so that it would be OK Brilliant!
Yes, points taken. The crimping method is much better all round and it also means that I can persuade SWMBO to allow me to buy new tool :-)
Thanks for your reply, I know where I am going now!
Steve
Just out of curiosity... can you not use a fuse connector block in a metal pattress box with insulation tape wrapped round a few times? Or do the new standards not allow this?
d.
No, I don't think so.
How would I try, or even want, to bury this "arrangement" under plaster. How would I replace the fuse. How would the screw connections, wrapped over with copious layers of insulating tape hold up over time. Inaccessible except by chipping walls away after the fire.
Bad advice is worse than no advice. Steve
No electrical wire or connection should be plastered over.
Put it in a conduit, either metal or plastic, so it can be withdrawn.
Then you should avoid Screwfix like the plague.
See above!
Alan
You should consult someone with a knowledge of electrics!
Alan
Care to expand on this point?
99.9% of UK houses have plastered in wiring. I thought surface mount went out in 1955.
It's about the last time Alan Holmes did anything electrical :-)
cheers, clive
He just did, by posting here.
Crimped connections are NOT bodges if done with the correct tool. The bodge comes from wankers who think they can just use a pair of pliers to crimp them.
Dave
This is incorrect. It is both acceptable and standard practice.
Cables embedded directly in masonry, plaster etc are classed as "installation method 2" in BS7671 - see table 4A1.
Whilst acceptable, there is no requirement to do this in most cases. Doing so however may result in you needing to apply current carrying capacity deratings to the cable.
Or not, since they supply exactly what you need:
To quote your words "you should consult someone with a knowledge of electrics!" - in your case, before offering advice.
Eh?
Nice idea, if you have the depth to do so. Not required by the regs in most case.
Why?
Christian.
I'm not impressed with the results you get with these red blue and yellow pre-insulated crimp connectors even with the correct tool. Remove the insulation and look at one after crimping. It's usually a mess - especially when used on wiring at the smaller end of the quoted tolerance. Compare it to a non insulated type crimped with the correct tool - the 'pip' in the former causes the ferrule to compress in on itself and contact the wire all the way round.
Pre-insulated types also *look* like a bodge. So I won't use them - ever.
And unless the conduit is very carefully designed - and wired up after completion - you'll have little chance of replacing wires later on all but a straight run.
That is why he is on this forum. He consulted me.
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