I've now got my Greenstar HE28 System boiler installed (thanks John!).
Unfortunately, as it is connected to a heat bank, I need the flow
temperature to exceed the normal 75C limit. According to the
installation/commissioning manual, this is done by removing the yellow end
cap from the temperature selection knob and reinserting it 180 degrees to
the original. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to want to budge and I don't
want to apply more force than I am, as it might snap the PCB/knob. Has
anyone ever been successful in this task? Any ideas?
I do not have one.
Are you sure it is not just a rotary control, i.e. to the electrnics
world a potentiometer. Has it a screwdriver slot in the top? If so
small screwdriver and gently turn.
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:52:22 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
No. It is a little yellow dot that doubles as the pointer for the
temperature control. I suspect is has a protruding lug that prevents the
pointer being turned past 75C. By reversing the dot, I suspect the alleged
lug will no longer prevent the pointer being turned. The slot is in the edge
of the insert supposedly to give something for your screwdriver to grip on
when prising it out. It's a weird concept anyway, especially as there is a
software setting to limit the temperature as well. Both have to be set to
get > 75C water.
Oh thanks for the delights of oil boilers where. I have no PCB in
sight just a handfull of interwired thermostats and switches. I lie
probably, there is a high voltage source in the burner itself and some
I like the KISS principle.
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 13:21:51 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
Yes, but what are you using to send that message? ;-)
Copyright (c) Sirius Cybernetics Corporation (formerly Microsoft)
Christian, once you've got this working, would you mind posting a
brief report on the recovery aspects of your Pandora heat bank,
coupled with your boiler.
I'm considering the same model that you have installed and would be
interested in some "real-world" data before I commit.
Well, it isn't brilliant with the boiler limited to 75C. However, it does
actually heat enough to turn off the 75C cylinder stat eventually. I think
the electric immersion was heating higher than 75C. When I get the flow
temperature above 80C, then I'm sure the boiler heating will do the same.
I tried even harder to remove the dot last night. I'm sure I'll damage the
boiler if I pull harder. I'm going to phone Worcester...
On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 09:51:27 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
I've just fitted a 35HE and that yellow bit is tight, I ended up
ripping it off with a pair of grips. Luckily the knob is fairly
sturdy, a good tug was required. It went back in o.k. just got teeth
marks on it, can't see til you look closely though!
It's nice to know two people have managed it!
I think I'll give the grips a try. It's a shame that this problem has
blighted an otherwise well designed boiler. Given that there is also a
software setting for this, I don't even see why they bothered making it so
No. The software is currently set for a maximum of 88C. Unfortunately, the
little peg in the knob physically prevents you turning the thermostat that
high. The peg is useless. They would have been better to have just had the
default software setting at 75C which would have just ignored any thermostat
knob setting above that value. I wonder how many Greenstars there are round
the country with chewed up yellow pointer knobs...
No. They had an internal diverter valve option with separate temperatures
for both sides, but the hot water flow is limited to 75C. Of course, it was
only later that it occured to me that I could have run the radiators on the
hot water circuit and the cylinder off the radiator circuit to bypass this.
OTOH, this may have defeated some internal algorithms.
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