Anyone fiberglassed a flattish roof?

I have a Portakabin with a leaking roof - current roof comprises metal sheeting - possibly zinc but probably galvanised steel, in several panels, with the joins bent upstanding and crimped. Leaks seem to be at the seams, and over the years various sorts of bitumastic sealer have been applied, usually resulting in a temporary fix. Leaks always come back after a few months. Recent rainy season has wrecked the inner lining :(

I'm contemplating fiberglassing the whole roof to try an 'all time cure' unless anyone has any other solutions ? Pitched roof would be nice but probably not practical.

Andrew

Reply to
Andrew Mawson
Loading thread data ...

Easiest/cheapest fix is with "flashband". Wirebrush and apply the black primer first. Good stuff. Assuming you can fing the actual site of the leak.

Reply to
harryagain

No Harry, that was one of the earlier 'cures' that failed sadly.

Andrew

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Joins bent upstanding & crimped....

How big / high are the upstands?

Could you glass upstand 'covers' that could move with the seasonal movements?

Jim K

Reply to
JimK

Could use these depending on the height of the join

formatting link
When I did a grp roof I found the challenge was entraining the fibres in the resin around tight radii. Which for the matting I was using was anything tighter than something like a tennis ball.

Right mucky job. Jon

Reply to
<address_is

I have never done this type of repair but did a liquid roof usage for my RV Roof leaks. Thanks for sharing.

formatting link

Reply to
rvliquidroof

I did my "new" pond last year. My main tips would be to buy half a dozen of the big 10l(?) mixing buckets and using water and a flat surface mark up the outside in 1 litre increments for mixing. 2 litres of resin seemed to be about right.

3 litres went off too quickly in my amateur hands but on a flat roof using a squeegee to spread it out 3 litre batches shouldn't be a problem. While the spent bucket is gelling use the next and so on then you can just peel off/out the first bucket and start over again.

Over order resin and hardener as you will waste quite a bit and it's far easier to saturate the mat with "ample" resin than it is to try and repair patches of mat that wasn't fully wetted out and subsequently becomes a hardned mass of pin-holes.

Work fast. Resin hates all damp and won't cure ever if it gets wet. So a dry few days (week) is essential and ideal temperature would be around

18 to 20 degrees without direct sunlight. (warm cloudy day?)

Mix, spread, consolidate. I tried to consolidate the mat after 2 batches of resin and it had already gone off and you don't get a 2nd chance once it's setting.

Your clothes and shoes will get trashed and those blue latex/Butyl(?) rubber gloves last about.... 30 seconds so get some heavy duty gloves and wear the blue ones underneath.

Acetone is your very best friend. :)

I got all the stuff from

formatting link
who are very helpful.

Pete@

Reply to
www.GymRatZ.co.uk

Liar.

Reply to
Adrian C

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.