A few floor laying questions.

[Graham Jones]

Hello,

I have some bought some semi-engineered oak flooring which originally I was going to get professionally laid. But after some deliberation I thought how nice it would be to do it myself.

It all seems straightforward but I have a few niggling questions that need answers to:

1) How suitable is this type of flooring for a cloakroom where the odd splash and missed tinkle will no doubt end up on the it. The flooring is T&G and needs gluing, it is not a click system. Very similar to the following expect it needs gluing.

most of the flooring will be laid in a hallway and will no doubt have to cope with wet shoes and boots.

I am a bit worried about water penetration. I can see how the glue might help here. Would a coat of varnish over the whole lot, once laid, be a good idea?

2) Obviously an expansion gap is required around the entire perimeter, this will be hidden by skirting fitted afterwards. But how do I hide the gap at the front door threshold?

3) Should I leave an expansion gap around the toilet? How do I get a nice finish around this?

4) The instructions say to leave the perimeter wedges in place for 24 hours while the glue dries. This is fine but does it mean I have to do the whole job in one go? To be honest I don't have the physical stamina to do it in one hit.

Thanks in advance,

Graham

[VisionSet]

If you varnish it, you will largely negate the attraction of the oak.

If your wc is close coupled and has a flexi waste connector, then just unscrew the pan, raise slightly and lay the floor underneath for an inch or so.

-- Mike W

[Christian McArdle]

Probably OK, provided you wipe up standing water immediately. Glueing massively improves water proofing. When installing even waterproof click laminate, you should normally glue for wet areas.

Threshold strips. The exact method may depend on what is existing at the front door already. Some problem solving may be required.

ALWAYS lay underneath the toilet. NEVER cut around one. If the toilet is glued to the floor rather than screwed, then you are also.

You might be surprised. I wouldn't worry about taking longer, though. It is removing them too quickly they are trying to avoid.

Christian.

[Graham Jones]

Great reply, thanks Christian.

[Graham Jones]

Well it is screwed but the waste is not a flexible pipe. Is there an alternative?

[VisionSet]

When was the bog put in? They usually do have a flexible joiner. sometimes this rotatable and offset to give height adjustment.

-- Mike W

[Guy King]

The message from Graham Jones contains these words:

Fit a flexible wastepipe.

[Bioboffin]

Thanks both to Graham and all of those who replied - you have solved a lot of my problems too!

Such is the wonder of newsgroups!!!!

Take care,

John.

[Owain]

# That's when good newsgroups become good friends #

Owain

[orangefield]

If you have you have boys in the house I would think very carefully about that. Unless cleaned after each miss it will penetrate and discolour over a few years..

scuffing from dirty shoes and water. I'm about to lay a floor in a new hallway and this time I'll putting tiles around the immediate entrance. Combined with a Turtle mat (great at drying wet shoes), the wood in the hallway should avoid the worst of it.

Other posters have offered alternatives, but if you're really stuck, Screwfix do a wood coloured sealant for laminate floors. This can be handy around pipes etc.

You don't need to do it in one hit. The t&g should be a tight enough fit to hold it as long as you don't wander about on it.