3d printing and SketchUp help please

Yup. There are a couple of selection tricks worth learning. The two most useful are the rubber band selections - where you drag a box around objects to select them.

Note that dragging top left to bottom right, and the reverse direction give intentionally different results. Down from the top will only include objects that are completely within the selection. If one end of al line is not in the box when you release the mouse button, it will not be included. The reverse direction will include any object where any part of it is included in the rubber banded area.

Once you have the bounding box on the grouped object, select the move tool (push M). when you over over one of the control points on the bounding box the protractor will pop up (easier then needing to explicitly select it). Rotate one axis until it looks right.

That gets the bounding box progressively more aligned with the content as it gets near to alignment with the axis.

Yes.

If you build things, and then move them together - they tend to "clump" and stick together. Which makes further moves and changes harder. By "grouping" something - even if its just a single object like a cube or cylinder it will no longer attach itself to other stuff. You could move it into a position where it passes right through your model, and then move it out again with no difficulty.

In this case I just centred it by eye (hence using an open ended cylinder so I could look down it). One could have used the ruler tool to drag guides away from the existing one for more accuracy. Note also that in a normal model that is not made from a myriad of individual vertices, you could have simply used the offset tool to drag a larger circle boundary from the existing one. The offset tool makes making concentric copies of borders smaller or larger than something already drawn very easy.

The "intersect with" features are harder to explain, but quite handy. They basically allow you to selectively do what happens when you slap together un grouped objects (i.e. when they normally form a vertex at the intersection and become joined there). You can slap a grouped object into your model, then intersect it, and it will add new vertices at all the place they touch. Take away the grouped object after and you now have a complete set of new "cut here" lines on the model.

Pretty much... it was the kind of job that had you have started with someone's sketchup model, would have been fairly easy. The fact that you had acquired the model from another 3D file format gave you are starting point that looked ok (ish) but was always going to be a bugger to tinker with. A bit like trying to change a program when you only have the compiled executable and not the source code.

For the purposes of getting better with sketchup, start with stuff in the 3D warehouse - at least that is sketchup native.

no problem, thanks.

Reply to
John Rumm
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The folks over at RepRap recommend FreeCAD as they use it themselves, along with the free program slic3r

Reply to
gareth

Yup mouse wheel button to orbit around the model in 3D space. Wheel up and down to zoom in and out, and wheel button + shift to pan and reposition your view. Very handy and quite intuitive once mastered.

Perhaps they are all too timid and see a "no user serviceable parts inside" sticker as an insurmountable legal obstetrical rather than a challenge ;-)

Reply to
John Rumm

I like SketchUp's navigation, and after a long editing session when switch back to web-browsing, I often wonder why the web pages won't orbit properly ;-)

Reply to
Andy Burns

Ditto. I'm sure there's interesting stuff written on the back of web pages, but can I see it? :-)

Reply to
Mike Barnes

(I did reply to your email but if you didn't see it it might be under a slightly different name).

Ok, the panel was printed and the results were as follows:

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The LCD aperture is just where I put it so I'm chuffed with that. However, it was pretty easy to put the verniers on it and measure what was required and the final fit is only really judged by eye.

The large hole for the encoder / menu knob was ideally going to be

16mm internal diameter (as the knob is 15 mm diameter) but has come out just over 15. Also, when I first got the controller board I noticed the encoder wasn't soldered in-line (with the other two holes or the silk screen) so de-soldered it and moved it nearer the centre / aother holes. The way it has turned out, the knob may had fitted if the encoder was left where it was, as the hole now seems to be slightly to the right (of centre, it could well have been there in the first place of course).

The extended hole for the stop-pushbutton extension was ideally going to be 8 and 4.5mm id to allow the button to fit freely. It has printed out at 7.25 and 3.25mm and so the extension still won't go in (either end). That shouldn't be an issue though as I can either drill both the holes out slightly or turn / print a button that fits the holes. ;-)

I've just tried using SketchUp to measure stuff to see if it's right there but just printed differently and it's coming up with (wildly) incorrect values (so another thing that I was able to do once but can't seem to do now). ;-(

I'm checking out the alternative CAD programs that have been mentioned here in the hope one of them is more 'me' than SketchUp. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Yup got that thanks. I "replied" but just realised that I only did it here rather than personally - so my apologies!

I think I would be included to draw it again from scratch... If you give me the actual dims you want I will draw a new one for you.

FWIW there is a free download of an old version of TurboCAD available somewhere.

Reply to
John Rumm

You are very kind, thanks. However, since first starting to print this Arduino Mega / RAMPS / display box I've found OctoPrint ..

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which allows the use of a Raspberry Pi as a 3d Print server (and much to my surprise was able to get it working on a Rasparian Linux build ). Soo, I might see if I can also get the Pi into this same enclosure, or, adapt it in some way to also take the Pi easily (maybe in the form of a backpack).

So, what you have done for me so far is more than good enough to hold the std setup and until I finally decide which way to go re a 3d printer for myself.

Thanks for the heads up. A couple of potential download links have come up blank but I'll look again later.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. If you like creating 3d models that were suitable for 3d printing I was reminded today that my small (5') goods trailer needs some sort of a back or spine to stop the PVC cover turning into a swimming pool.

I need to check the returns of the metal frame at the top of the front and back but I was thinking of printing something that just sit over the top frames front and back (like a 100mm long upturned square 'U' with a dowel moulded out of one side) and then with the use of a suitable tubular rod between them both, just drop onto the trailer.

I could probably sketch on paper what I have in mind with the critical dimensions but I also need to consider what to use for the spine. I might even need two sets to support the cover a bit more.

If printed upside down with the dowel at the same level as the top of the 'U', The tube could be notched to go over the top of the channel to provide a bit more support?

Reply to
T i m

In case it might help others, here are my experiences with this.

I was interested in finding out the shape being discussed, so I downloaded the stl file. This turned out to be a load of plain text definitions of vectors. I have used SketchUp in the past, and have found it difficult to set dimensions. Not having it on this PC, I downloaded the latest 2015 version, which then told me that it required at least Windows 7, and I'm sticking to XP until forced off.

So I installed the 2014 version. It has a built-in web facility to their Extension Warehouse where I hoped to install the stl import facility. But it just said page not available, without saying what page it was trying for. So I used my FireFox browser to go to the SketchUp website, from where I was able to download the stl facility, then install it from within SketchUp. I learn that stl stands for Stereo Lithography.

Then I imported the stl file being discussed, and found it to be a psychedelic mass of vectors. However I was able to rotate it and found it to be a flat slab with pillars, so I was able to rotate and move it to get it to stand level on the XY plane as John did.

The flat surfaces had many unnecessary edges forming triangles, so I set about deleting every edge on flat surfaces one by one, as I don't know of a way to select many edges at once but not planes.

I could now make sense of the object. Thinking I could post the result here, I exported it back to stl format. However, when I started a new SketchUp session and imported the file, back came all the spurious edges, although now the object was aligned properly.

I tried exporting my 1MB SketchUp file to AutoCad dwg, but that became a 3MB file. I also tried exporting to AutoCad dxf file, but that was

10MB. I tried exporting to xsi format; this gave a file half the size of the stl file, but it was a binary file, and it too recreated the spurious edges when imported.

So I conclude that there is no file format that can define an object like this clearly in a small file.

Reply to
Dave W

Interesting report Dave ... and pretty well sums up my current 'experiences' with such things.

However, say I want to print a vase for my old Mum, I go on Thingiverse, enter 'vase' in the search box, scroll down until I see something I think she would fancy or be able to make use of (even for pencils etc) and download it to our 'Printing' folder. I then open up Repetier-Host, File, Open and browse to my (.stl) file and open it. I then click on the Slicer tab and slice the file, noting how long it predicts it will take to print. If it's too long, I might reduce the size of the model and re-slice (slicing only takes a few seconds).

Now, I can either print directly from the PC or take the SD card out of the RAMPS (printer controller) board, save the G-Code (sliced) file to the card, put it back in the controller and select it from the SD card menu.

So, in 'many cases' (so far anyway), I / we haven't had to open up the file and therefore don't see all you describe above.

In the case mentioned in this thread, I felt it would be 'nice' to be able to move the LCD aperture to better suit my particular version of the controller / display.

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This was the original box / files.

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This is just the front panel, knob and button extension.

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Does this look to be the same mess of vectors / triangles to you OOI?

In case it makes any difference, this is what I believe to be all the parts in a SketchUp format.

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I eventually managed to re-size the LCD window in SketchUp and John kindly made the other changes for me.

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Tim,

I can confirm that the screen.stl file shows even more spurious edges when imported than the one you originally posted. Also it is in binary format, not ASCII, so half the filessize but unreadable to humans.

I can also confirm that boitier.skp shows all component parts in SketchUp without spurious edges. It would be possible to select just the screen from the array of parts, and save it to its own SketchUp file, which should then be much easier to modify than an imported stl file.

I've just tried this, and the screen component fitted exactly into the "Makerbot Replicator 2X" template provided in SketchUp. What I can't understand is why boitier.skp is only 317KB despite containing many component models, yet my skp files with just the screen component are over 1MB. I thought the 317KB was due to the fact that the curved surfaces in the models are not composed of many plane triangles as in the stl file, but use simple cylindrical shapes, but this is not the reason as my pasted SketchUp file is still composed of cylinders.

Regards, Dave W

Reply to
Dave W

Do me a sketch and I will see what I can do...

Reply to
John Rumm

Ok and thanks for checking.

Ok.

Funnily enough, I did just that yesterday with the little pushbutton extension and printed 4 of them at 90% size (in red to stand out against the black of the panel as it's the 'Emergency Stop' button).

Ok.

Strange (but I'm sure you aren't looking to me for any explanation of any of this ... to me it's all witchcraft!).

In case it helps, the button as I isolated it is 57kB.

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Like I said, witchcraft! ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

You are very kind, I'll take some measurements tomorrow.

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

stl files are all small; it's the size of the skp SketchUp files which are puzzling me.

Reply to
Dave W

Hi John, this is the sort of thing I was originally thinking about:

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There are only really two critical dimensions and they are the internal width of the channel (so it will actually fit over the top edge of the trailer) and the diameter of the 'peg' (or socket, so that it is a loose interference fit in / over whatever pole I select).

One of those brackets on either end of a pole sitting across the top of the trailer lengthwise to stop the PVC cover from pooling water. The trailer sits with a reasonable slope to the front so the cover does shed water reasonably well, as long as it doesn't get a chance to sag inwards too much. I may go to two or even three poles to give a better effect.

So, the real work will be being done by the combination of the inside edge of the bracket, the top and the support tube / peg.

As the trailer is only around 1.4m long, the tube doesn't have to be particularly strong but it does need to be reasonably stiff, easy / cheap to buy and ideally non-rusting. Once I find the right material I can decide if the fitment to the 'bracket' will be internal or external. I briefly considered plastic conduit but that would probably sag in the heat.

Maybe a cheap paint roller extension pole or those mock bamboo, green plastic coated steel poles (the latter being very cheap and reasonably stiff)?

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Alternatively, depending on the diameter of the tube, a simple (3d printed) 'fork' on each end of said tube (with one leg above and one below the trailer top edge) with the tube slid in at an angle might achieve the same end?

Reply to
T i m

Yeah, sorry Dave, I realised I'd mentioned the wrong file after posting. ;-(

Does this make more sense at 152kB (well, not more sense but more in line what the strangeness we are seeing)?

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Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Unfortunately that is a SketchUp15 file, and the latest that works on my XP is SketchUp14.

I did another experiment. Boitier,skp is a SketchUp8 file. Instead of copying and pasting the screen component to a new file, I deleted all components except the screen, and saved the file to a new file as SketchUp8. Boitier.skp is 317KB, and my cut down file is 385KB. Stranger and stranger.

I repeated that, but did not explode the screen group to delete the enclosed gearwheel and part inside the window, and regrouping. The resultant file was now 308KB.

It seems Windows copy and paste is responsible for enlarging the file.

Reply to
Dave W

I would have thought a "socket" would be better than a peg - lets you use solid or hollow rods.

How about we make it a spigot - so you have an internal and external diameter - then you could say use a dowel in it or conduit over it?

I will do you one to play with and see...

Reply to
John Rumm

ok Tim, try that:

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Outer diameter 17mm to take electrical conduit, and internal just over

1/2" for a dowel. I added a 5 degree incline, so it will introduce a slight bend in the rail.
Reply to
John Rumm

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