2nd hand Megger advice

[Alexander Lamaison]

I'm keeping my eye on eBay to try and pick up an insulation tester on the cheap. My budget is about £60. Or £100 if the thing does RCD and earth loop too.

Are there any things to watch out for that might trip up the uninitiated (me)?

Does anyone have a favourite model/brand and why?

Metrels seem to be cheaper than others? Is there a reason for that?

Did anything important change between the 16th, 17th and 17th+1 regs to make it unwise to buy a discontinued (and therefore cheaper) model?

Any other advice?

All the questions equally apply to RCD and earth loop testers. My current experience is only with a Socket and See PDL230 loop tester.

Thanks,

Alex

[Tim Watts]

On Sunday 17 February 2013 15:58 Alexander Lamaison wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I got my Megger 1552 from ebay, with 6 months warrent left and half the new price.

First thing I did was get it calibrated (allow another 40-50 quid for this - but then you know it is good).

Personally I find Megger good and solid. Try the IET (IEE) forums and search for testers, there ar emany opinions there - and some makes are regularly praised and some slated.

There is nothing that matters re IEE edition - but you do want thse basic features:

1) Impedance test

2) Insulation test at 500V

3) RCD tests.

Optional are:

4) PSC (supply impedance or max short circuit current) test. Optional because you are allowed to assume the worse case for the basis of calculations. But nice to have.

5) Earth rod test. Bit specialist, can be done other ways, and only relevant if you have a rod.

The Megger 1552 does 1-4.

[Alexander Lamaison]

Looks like a nice box. Unfortunately way outside my budget. The calibration is most of my budget! :P

Are the old models still useful? The yellow bodied ones?

So the 1000V test isn't crucial? The Megger MIT 220 is affordable but lacks the 1000V test.

Thanks,

Alex

[Tim Watts]

On Monday 18 February 2013 10:48 Alexander Lamaison wrote in uk.d-i-y:

Sorry - I can't advise on those.

I've never had cause to need a 1000V test. The only (possibly, IIRC) prescribed use for 240V systems is testing MICC cable.

PVC cable for 240V requires (by the book) IR testing at 500V and a 250V test may sometimes be used if sensitive devices are present that cannot be iolated (in practice they alway can, but a 250V test means a "quick test without isolating lots of lighting dimmers etc" is possible.

[meow2222]

If you've any problem finding leakage at 500v, 1kV will find it fast.

NT