You could try starting with Ipe flooring, comes in 1/2" and 3/4" thick,
4"-12" wide and 8'-20' lengths, pre-finished or unfinished, T&G or
straight 90deg edges. Purchase an 2' long, 10" wide, 1/2" thick,
unfinished, straight 90deg edge piece of Ipe flooring. Trim Ends. Route
and finish edges. Commonly available and usually less expensive per board
foot than Ipe boards of similar size.
Powermatic Model 66 Table Saw Model: 66 specs Blade Diameter (in): 10
Arbor Diameter (in): 5/8 Max. Depth of Cut (in): 3-1/8 (in).
For a 9" piece that leaves you w/ 2" in the middle you now have to do
with something else (like a bandsaw, maybe? :) ).
W/ a decent bandsaw and a resaw blade, blade drift is no issue.
Post this question on rec.woodworking and I'd bet the bandsaw would be
the choice 10:1.
Yes, but ...
I agree with whoever said that if one were to post this on a woodworking
group, the answer would be "bandsaw" 10-to-1. It's just a better tool
for the job; much smaller kerf, and therefore less wood waste *and* less
power required for the cut, and probably less dangerous too (remember
that ipe is really hard wood). Yes, potential problems with tracking,
but that's what tuning a bandsaw (and learning how to steer wood through
it) is all about.
Of course, if one doesn't have a bandsaw, as I don't ... hell, you could
rip from both sides on your table saw, then handsaw the remaining inch
or so in the middle.
Or you could do it like Noah's carpenters, sawing the whole thing by
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute
conversation with the average voter.
This can be done on a large bandsaw or one equipped with riser blocks.
This kind of cut is called a "resaw." The result is book-matched
A tablesaw can rip this cut by flipping the stock, keeping the same
side against the fence, then a handsaw can cut out the remaining
center. With a 10" blade you'll have a 1" center to remove.
Another method is to use a surface planer. With this method much of
the wood is wasted and you get just one piece.
The operation is resawing, as most agreed here. Then you need to run it in a
big ass jointer to get it flat, a planer to get it to even dimensional
thickness and a final pass in the drum sander to get it smooth.
But if you have the skills of the late Dick Proenneke, all you need is a
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