In need of creating a roof of sorts for a firewood rack. Trying to find
that happy median between durability and cost.
At the moment I'm leaning towards 3/4x4x8 BC pine plywood. This will be
covered by green tarps of which I have many.
Is there a different type of plywood or panel I should consider instead?
Also curious about corrugated plastic roof panels. Anyone use them for
Yes. CDX is not pressure treated but is rated for exterior use
without ground contact. Since you are covering it with a tarp it
should last quite a while.
Arsenic treated lumber (ACQ) was banned several years back and you
probably will never find it on the shelves anymore. Todays PT lumber
is mostly MCQ (micronized copper) which replaced it's corrosion prone
The actual steel metal sheeting they have at the Borgs makes a fine cover.
Some of the better ones actually have up to eleven levels of coatings on
them, and you can buy ridge cap and edging to make a really professional
little wood shelter. It is about $1.25 per foot, and that would amount to 3
square foot. So, a guy could make a nice metal cover for two sheets, and
some trim, translates out to about $50. If you can weld, you can
incorporate a metal frame of 1" x 1" .065" square tube at about $.60 per
It is what I am going to be making for my firewood this year, but it will be
a larger version, as I have about 100 sheets of 12' long sheeting, and
hundreds of feet of 1" square tube, and a supplier of cheap trim. I shall
just have to go buy some ridge cap.
Consider wrapping three sides to keep the wind from blowing snow or rain
into the wood, and other considerations as to where this will set so that
you will have a dry supply of wood.
A word of caution: Wood is a preferred home of brown recluse spiders and
other nasty critters. Poison can be spread so that it is on the flooring,
and all around the wood, but avoid spraying the wood directly, as you are
going to burn said wood. Adhesive spider traps have no toxic agents. Watch
your wood for signs of mold, and other deterioration, and deal with it.
Make your rack so that there is some allowance for air to circulate around
it, which will help it keep dry, and keep down on mold and "stuff".
This summer we shall go get our obligatory 5 cords for $20 from the BLM. We
ran out last winter, and that ain't gonna happen again, even if I have to
make a special wood shed.
Green tarps over a wood pile will only last a few months due to
chaffing. And I've never found any made to a size that fit my wood
When I want to go get wood, I don't want to pull off a tarp with a foot of
snow on it, or is sopping wet. It's windy, it's sleeting, it's cold. I
don't want to spend any more time than I need to fetch some wood. And I
sure don't want to wrestle with a sodden tarp.
How anyone cannot grasp that a tarp cover for a wood pile is a weak idea is
Or they don't use wood to heat.
On Sat, 21 May 2011 19:13:35 -0400, willshak wrote:
Insufficient pitch to begin with, not A viable option to increase the
pitch as I'd need to modify the shed roof it connects to.
Although held taught with truckers tie down straps the water collects and
overpowers the straps. End result sagging tarps and pulled grommets.
I've burned wood for 25 of the last 30 years. I've tried various methods of
protection and what I found best is nothing. Wood, tarps, sheeting,
fiberglass, tin roofing are all a PITA in one way or another. Nothing works
well enough for me. We get about 48" of snow on a typical winter, but
rarely do I have snow covered wood to bring in. It falls right off the logs
when you handle them, unlike sheets of plywood.
The better and closer roof you put over the wood, the more likely things
(that you don't want in the house) will make a home in the stack.
I'm not convinced using (purchased) wood as a main heat source makes
financial sense (see other thread), but if I was to go down that road, I
think I would make a dedicated 3 and 1/2 sided shed for it, with rails
to hold the bottom layer of wood out of the mud, and enough headroom so
the top layer wasn't nice and dark. Doesn't need to be fancy or very
strong- just enough structure to hold the roof panels (probably
corrugated metal) and enough sidewall to keep the sideways rain off the
wood stack itself. Orient it and leave enough gaps so plenty of air
passes through, etc. The privacy screen around an old pit toilet at a
state park beach comes to mind.
Granted, and if you make the structure with room around the wood like you
propose, you can spray without getting spray on the wood.
In OUR house, and I am only speaking for myself, it makes a very large
difference in heating costs for a couple of reasons. One is that wood
permits are cheap, and we get wood for $4 a cord. The other is that we have
a very good wood stove, housing insulation, and room arrangement.
At the end of last winter, we ran out of wood, and noticed a big spike in
the electric bill.
The privacy screen around an old pit toilet at a
Exactly, of if you can't go that big, at least leave enough room for
circulation, and so that you can spray around the outsides of the wood and
on the floor without getting the poison on the wood.
On Sat, 21 May 2011 23:22:12 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
That reminded me of my daughters first residence in Ticonderoga NY. Open
stacks of wood with a very consistent silver gray appearance. Sun and
wind worked well.
Unfortunately my lot has tall pines, oaks, and maples contributing both
shade and debris.
Sunshine on a pile of wood is grossly overrated for helping it dry.
Air movement through the stack is 90% or more of the drying. Given a
choice between full sun and good air circulation I will put my stack
into full shade if needed to get the 'air'.
Good point about the debris. I am currently burning 17 year old Black
Locust that was stacked under a Horse Chestnut. Mucho, mucho crap on
top of the ricks and it filters down layer by layer as I remove wood.
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