Wire Molding installation

[farseer]

Sorry in advance for what may seem like rudimentary questions...but just want to make sure i am doing this right.

I am tapping into an existing outlet to add a new outlet about 6 ft away. The location is around a corner wall. So in my drawing below, o1 is the original outlet, x looks like a junction area in the wall that provides the power. o2 is where i want my new outlet to be located.

-----o2--------------------- | | x | | | | | | | o1 | | |

-----------------------------

My plan is to splice the wires from X and run to o2 using #12 or #14 cables. I wanted to cover this up using wire molding so it looks neat. My question is, how do you install these things. Do you run the wire through them first or do you install the wire molding first then run the wire through them? The wire wolding i have seems to have a long metal sheet as the back plate to which the molding itself is attached. That metal sheet can slide in our out (left or right), but i don't think you can snap the moulding on to that...implying that i have to 'feed' the wire through the molding and therefore must run the wire through first before attaching these molding.

I did a google and could not find much on the proper way to install these things and the instructions are not very clear in terms of what you do with the wire and when.

thanks for any advice.

[scott21230]

Is there some reason why you don't install the wiring inside the wall?

[professorpaul]

The last time I did this, the channel was a plastic thing. It stuck to the wall with adhesive backing on the plastic channel. I then laid the wire inside the channel, and snapped the cover piece on. The fittings for the boxes (3, in your case) go on first. Cut the channel to fit. There is a piece to go around the corner, as well. All the stuff at Lowe's or Home Depot. I needed to put power in a closet for a computer printer, wireless print server, and document shredder. Maybe an hour's work, not counting time to get the materials. Some years ago, I did some stuff in my garage for an outlet for a trash compactor. That one was a metal channel. Same deal, but slightly different fitting system.

[RBM]

You can use "500" steel wiremold which mounts to the wall either by back straps or over the mold two hole straps. You first remove the existing outlet and install an extension box to bring the existing outlet to the surface, then you attach your "500" wiremold and whatever fittings, internal, external elbows, etc., then you install your outlet box, slide your new conductors into the molding and connect to the existing outlet

[John Grabowski]

In addition to what was said above, you should only be using individual conductors inside of wiremold not cable. The metal wiremold is an approved grounding conductor, but I prefer to run an individual green wire. Make sure that you file off any burrs on the inside of the Wiremold after you cut it with a hacksaw.

[Professional]

[farseer]

[farseer]

Thanks all. i finished this...it took me quite a long time since it is the first time i did something like this. It turns out that the existing box that i wanted to tap into had two hot wires coming out of the same cable, but from two different circuit. that threw me a bit. I also initially tried shoving the entire cable in their (#12). When that wouldn't fit, i stripped the sheeting and ran just the individual wires (as John mentioned). This still took me some time as the #12 wires are really tough to handle. the don't like to fold too easily. I wanted to use #12 because it seemed to match the existing wire size (even though the existing wires were very old) and because the circuit was on a 20 amp breaker. This outlet is going to be used by a surge protector for my computer, monitor, pinter, cable modem, etc...

messagenews:DUkfh.447$ [e-mail]...

addition to what was said above, you should only be using individual