What's the best 120VAC wall outlet with two full power USB ports of at least 20 Watts?

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I want to help out a neighbor who knows nothing about electricity by replacing a handful of wall outlets with those that have two (full power) USB ports.
By full power, I mean BOTH PORTS simultaneously can charge with at least 2.1 amps (for a total power output of at least 20 Watts).
http://www.enerlites.com/61501-tr2usb.html
Here's the best "USB Receptacle" I can find for charging two 2.1 Amp iPads simultaneously: - Enerlites 61501-TR2USB (4.0A combined, for a total of 20 Watts) http://www.enerlites.com/61501-tr2usb.html
Here's the second best I can find: - Leviton T5632 (3.6A combined, for a total of 18 Watts) http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=T5632-W&sectionc676
Here's a typical one, which is sub optimal: - Hubbell Wiring Systems USB15X2W (3A combined, for a total of 15 Watts) https://www.codale.com/index.jsp?path=product&part459565
Do you know of a more powerful USB Recepticle other than the Enerlites above, that can charge two 2.1 Amp iPads simultaneously?
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You also need to consider which ones are well enough designed so they won't destroy what you are charging if they fail. Hard to quantify tho.
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Rod Speed wrote, on Thu, 08 Jan 2015 08:09:04 +1100:

What does that mean?
Current is different than voltage. The voltage is regulated at 5VDC. Too much voltage will destroy things.
But you can't source too much current. The more current you can source, the better.
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Some can fail catastrophically and put full mains voltage on whatever you are charging.

And does when the electronics in the socket fails and delivers full mains voltage to the device plugged into USB.

Sure, that isnt the problem with badly designed sockets.
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Rod Speed wrote, on Thu, 08 Jan 2015 10:05:41 +1100:

But that can happen with ANY USB charger.
To be more specific on the question, since the spec on two ipads would be to source about 2.1 Amps x 2 which is 4.2 Amps of current (aka 21 Watts) of power, is there a MORE POWERFUL dual-USB wall outlet receptacle than the best one I found, so far?
http://www.enerlites.com/61501-tr2usb.html
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Nope, its perfectly possible to design a charger so that no failure will ever deliver full mains voltage to the device its charging.
Have a look at the teardowns of chargers on youtube sometime.

You need both that AND one that can't deliver full mains voltage to the device if it fails.
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theoretically yes, but quality chargers have protection so that it is highly unlikely to happen. cheap chargers skimp on the protection and everything works out ok. often it does but sometimes it doesn't.
in other words, don't buy noname crap.

there is no point for more power, as nothing will sink it.
for wall outlets with usb ports, the thing to look for is if the usb ports are always on or if it can detect if there's a device plugged into it and if not, disable the usb port and not waste electricity.
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Impossible, actually.

Or don't have any protection at all.

Presumably you left out a 'hope' after the and.

It aint just the name that matters.

Wrong, as always.

There is no wasted electricity with a proper switch mode design.
You only get that effect with transformer based systems.
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nospam wrote, on Wed, 07 Jan 2015 22:42:57 -0500:

I think they're all UL approved.

That's sort of like saying there's no point in buying a motorcycle with more than 100 BHP at the rear wheel because you don't need it.

I think all the ones I found were always on, although I agree it's a great idea if they only activate the circuitry when they're being used.
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On Wed, 7 Jan 2015 22:25:32 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

I never even knew they made outlets with USB ports on them. But you can buy plug in adaptors that will plug into any outlet in the house. I'd be inclined to just buy an adaptor and plug it in whereever you need it. That way you can use it anywhere in the house or in your garage, or anywhere else.
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On Thu, 08 Jan 2015 02:03:08 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@spamblocked.com wrote:

I've seen them advertised. If I were putting in a new recept. where I could use USB, I'd buy one.

But otherwise, I'd do what you say. Many of my duplex recepts. have been converted by a plug-in to hexex (or sixex or whatever). Others have those short ext. cords with 6 outlets in them, sometimes 2 or 3 in a row it's not where it's ugly. A couple of them have USB adapters in them.

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*I think that you are better off with the Hubbell. The 3 amps is per port on the Hubbell whereas the 3.6 amps on the Leviton is total amps.
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On Thursday, January 8, 2015 6:55:42 AM UTC-6, John G wrote:

Agree...in my experience Hubbell is a quality invested company.
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Jerry.Tan wrote, on Thu, 08 Jan 2015 02:03:08 -0600:

Bear in mind that the 20 Watt plug-in dual-port adapters are huge. I already bought her one, at Frys - which is what she is using now.
That 20 Watt plug-in adapter was $45 and takes up a LOT of space on the outlet. That's when I hit upon the idea of just putting in an outlet, which takes up no space, for about the same amount of money.
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micky wrote, on Thu, 08 Jan 2015 03:36:40 -0500:

I saw them at Frys. None of the extension cords with USB were simultaneous 2 Amps per USB port. So, they're mostly for show.
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John G wrote, on Thu, 08 Jan 2015 04:55:33 -0800:

The Hubbel lies.
As far as anyone can tell, the Hubbel is 3 Amps total. They based that on the input wattage, which the Hubbel web site PDF provides.
Almost always, if they don't say explicitly that the current (or wattage) is 'per port', then it's not.
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On Thu, 8 Jan 2015 08:09:04 +1100, "Rod Speed"

+1
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definitely not impossible. even the best chargers can have component failures and damage a device. nothing is perfect.

in other words, skimp.

looks like i did.

no, but it's an easy way to determine quality other than buy it and take it apart. name brands don't normally risk making crap.

nope.

nope.
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that helps.

not a good analogy.
what devices sink more than 10-12w? unless you can find one *and* plan on buying it, then it doesn't matter if the outlet can source more.

there's at least one that autosenses but i don't remember who makes it. i met the guy who designed it a few years ago at a conference.
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Only if it actually is UL approved and doesn't just claim that it is when in fact it isnt.
Plenty of the fake Apple chargers claim to be and it's a lie.

Wrong, as always. It makes no sense to buy just what you currently need and have to replace all the sockets when you buy something that takes more current than what you currently have.

But don't understand the basics, as always.
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