Conservatory full height or dwarf wall?

I'm considering buying a diy conservatory but I don't know whether to g

for a full height ( with solid panels at the bottom ) or a dwarf wal model. Is there much difference in how they keep warm etc.

Also what do you do about power points and heating devices in conservatory with full height panels as I guess they can't be mounte on the panels themselves.

And

-- pike

Reply to
pike
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If you are tight for space as I was then bottom panels give quite a few extra inches. The difference in insulation is not really significant when you take all the glazing into account.

I fitted floor mounted convectors, Jaga I think. For power I fitted sockets to the existing wall and just ran trailing outlets round the perimeter. Easily hidden and more than adequate for the likely loads.

Jim A

Reply to
Jim Alexander

A dwarf wall will give you a window ledge.

Reply to
Grumps

It depends on the style of property. A full height with solid wood lower panels looks very good on most period properties, whilst modern houses might prefer a dwarf wall model, although a full height version can look good on any age, really.

In any case, if doing it diy, then a full height model is much simpler. There's no wall to build.

That depends on the panel construction. The baltic pine wooden panels are quite good insulation, whilst some uninsulated uPVC panels could be quite poor. Others might be insulated, and thus beat wood.

That depends. With the wooden panels, these can be mounted very easily. It is more difficult with uPVC. When heating conservatories, remember a few things.

(a) Specify double glazing for the windows (b) Specify double glazing (or at least triple wall polycarbonate) for the roof. (c) If extending central heating, ensure it acts as an independently timed zone.

As for the type, electric heating will be extortionate to run. It is better to extend the central heating. In a conservatory with limited wall space, there are several technologies that can help and you should consider. These suggestions all run off a wet central heating system. They all require their own zone. If this is impractical, they can still have a zone valve and programmable thermostat, but they will only work when the house zone is calling for heat as well.

Underfloor heating:

Pros: Pleasant warmth to feet, without overheating head, no wall space needed. Quiet. Cons: Relatively expensive, slow to respond, so must be turned on for long period before effective, limited maximum output might not cope with exceptionally cold conditions. Difficult to fix in case of leak, especially if buried in concrete.

Skirting heating:

Pros: No wall space needed. Quiet. Can provide topup to underfloor to ensure effectiveness in cold weather. Cons: Skirting might not suit conservatory panels. Limited maximum output. Relatively expensive.

Fan convectors:

Pros: Very rapid warmup, suited to boost heating 10 minutes before intended room use. Ideal for dining room use or other intermittent usages. Massive heat output well in excess of that required to maintain temperature in exceptionally cold conditions. Rapid response leads to greater energy efficiency, as you can heat only when occupied. Cons: Requires some wall space (either above door using hiline, or on low wall, using loline). Can be noisy. Moderately expensive.

Radiators:

Pros: Simple. Cheap. Quiet. Cons: Uses large amounts of wall space to achieve acceptable output.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

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