Waterproofing for work gloves?

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Nope. Leather gloves that have been properly waterproofed will let the sweat out, but keep the water out for long enough to get a day's work done. They'll dry overnight just fine, if put on the rack over the woodstove or in front of the heater.
BTDT daily for 12 years, so far.
Jan
--
The way to a man's heart is between the fourth and the fifth rib.

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Are you talking about leather gloves? What about the waterproofing products used for boots? Your local boot repair shop should have some stuff. Even Walmart carries beeswax, I think.
Dean
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Keep them in your pocket.
More seriously, can you wear a rubber glove?
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Bill wrote:

Rubber work gloves. Not the little skinny stuff to keep your hands clean, the real kind that are heavy rubber with a fiber matrix meant to work in. Used in lots of industries, e.g., chemical plants, railroading, but you should be able to find them at any farm supply.
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A pair of thin polypropylene gloves under jerseys, and you can snowball fight all day. 'Course, they're still wet. Tom
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wrote:

Not too sure, but try linseed oil...Or, ask the local hardware guys.
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You could consider these - expensive and they will get damp from perspiration, but they will otherwise stay dry:
http://www.nordic-blue.com/butik/index.asp?sp=e
Mike
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Sno Seal (beeswax based). Got mine from a shoe repair place.
I use it on all my leather gloves & boots. While it doesn't make them 100% waterproof, it's about 90% effective. I can work for a few hours in a wet garden or shoveling wet snow before I need to swap gloves/boots for a dry pair.
My hands/feet perspire too much to wear synthetic, 100% waterproof items. The Sno Seal is a good compromise, so I retain some of the breathability of a good leather but can work comfortably for a few hours at a time.
You might want to shop around and try different leathers. I found that not all leathers are the same. Different animal skins have different properties, try pigskin or goatskin. The tanning process used can affect skin properties as well.
I have a pair of goatskin gloves treated with Sno Seal. I love them. They are thinner than cow leather so more flexible, yet offer almost the same strength as thicker cow leather. Very very comfortable to work in, yet very strong.
wrote:

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Get a can of Huberd's Shoe Grease or a can of Snow Seal.
Heat your oven to 200F. Keep the door open and put your gloves on the oven rack. Let them get warm/hot. (Watch them -- you don't want to fry the leather.) Then get your can of waterproofing goop, open it, put the gloves on, dip a finger into the can and start doing a "washing your hands" motion, to work the goop into the leather. Repeat as needed.
Get a good coating of the goop on your gloves, then set them back on the oven rack for awhile and let the heat work the goop into the leather. You can put the gloves back on after awhile, and wipe any excess goop off on a rag. The gloves will be nice and soft and waterproof under some pretty severe conditions, but the leather won't get softened so the gloves will wear out faster. They'll be fine.
I live on a beef cattle ranch in coastal Alaska, in a wet climate. I wear Carhartt brand insulated leather work gloves all winter, and came up with the above process out of frustration. It works.
Re-goop the gloves as needed. (Doing my process about twice all winter should do it. Winter last for 7-8 months at my latitude.)
Jan
--
The way to a man\'s heart is between the fourth and the fifth rib.


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