Anyone have any links showing how washing machine motors work? I have a
Kenmore that's perhaps 10 years old and the motor will sometimes run,
sometimes just buzz. There is some kind of switch thingy attached to the
wiring harness that looks sorta like a micro switch. There is a mechanism
with two springs attached that I think has something to do with getting the
motor started. I can't find a model number on the washer and the part
number on the motor doesn't work on Sear's website.
I've searched but so far have not found any general descriptions of washer
motors. The mechanism appears to be similar to my swimming pool pump motor
which just need to be cleaned and lubed when it got stuck.
On Nov 26, 6:30 am, email@example.com wrote:
searspartsdirect.com DID find the substiture motor model number by
entering a model number for the motor. Trouble is it has several
numbers on it and I finally picked the right one. I just went for two
days with no internet and no phone service and I don't remember
exactly how I got the right one but it may have been from the other
link someone here gave me. Unfortunately the part number for the
switch revealed nothing so far so I'm still searching for that.
There should be a model right by where the controls are for the washer. It
should say something like Kenmore 80 series or Kenmore 70 series
Once you have this just go to there web site and look up the washer.
I had this situation one time and the motor just buzzed. It turned out there was
a sock stuck in the pump.
I tried the 80 Series and that didn't go. I tried a number on the
inside of the lid and no luck either. It must have a model number
*somewhere* because I replaced the water-fill selenoid a few years
Meanwhile I entered the model numbers from the motor and found one
that worked. Lotsa $$$. I could probably get a new washer for just a
few bucks more.
I was not absolutely sure it was the motor until this morning. There
didn't appear to be an socks stuck in the water pump (yes, I checked)
and the gearbox seems to be AOK and turns easily and smoothly with no
apparent broken, worn, or otherwise damaged gears.
I'll try repairclinic.com. Thanks for that link!
Next time the motor hums, smack it with a rubber or wooden mallet to
see if it starts. If it has a capacitive-switch start, the switch
could be bad.
About twice a year I have to jar the motor on my table saw to get it
I think I have an old motor from a Kenmore washer that should still
work. It's pretty old, but it's just been sitting under my workbench
for 10+ years (I think). If there are any numbers on the motor itself,
send them along and I'll see if they match. Maybe we can work out a
Before you ask, yes, I got caught by the old "sock in the pump" trick
and thought the motor was shot.
The motor I have is FSP C68PXDBZ-3290 and according to Sears and
repairclinic.com it is part number 62556 which has been replaced by
part number 389248. It has shafts extending from both ends of the
motor as it is direct-drive--one shaft for the gearbox and the other
for the pump.
I have an old motor from a Whirlpool that looks like it's exactly the
same stator housing and and possibly the same rotor but has different
wiring connections and the shaft only extends from one end as it was
I fiddled with the "capacitive-switch" and I have not yet concluded if
it's the problem or if it's inside the motor. I have not yet ran the
motor without the gearbox attached but I'm pretty sure it's not the
gearbox. I have ran it without the pump attached so that eliminates
the sock syndrome.
Heh. I have one old motor that I have not found a good use for yet
and I may have another one soon. I do have a 30" fan blade from a
whole-house fan that fits right on the shaft and I figured out which
wires to use for slow and fast speed but I just can't figure out why I
need a big fan that uses a lot of power ;-)
Well, besides the washing machine motor, I still have the blower motor
from my old furnace.
I keep promising myself that one of these days I'm going to build a
sanding station but I never seem to get a Round Tuit.
The problem seems to be either the motor itself or the switch that is
attached to the motor. If I detach the switch and push it while power
is applied to the motor the motor runs just fine. It pulses and makes
noise if the switch is not pushed in. It seems like there must be
some kind of cam that the lever on the switch rides on but I can't see
or feel one and the motor looks like it was designed to not be taken
apart. I now have the gearbox detached from the motor and the problem
is still the same so that kinda narrows it down. The lever on the
switch does not appear to be worn but I'm not sure what it used to
look like so it's likely it is worn judging from it's behaviour.
BTW I'm using Google cause my NG Server has not updated this group
since 5/07! Gotta get a new server...
The mechanism with two springs is a centrifugal switch. The motor has
two sets of windings. One is energized when the motor starts. Once
it's spinning fast enough to activate the centrifugal mechanism, it in
turn activates the microswitch to energize the "run" windings. A common
problem with these motors is the centrifugal mechanism getting clogged
with lint. Clean out the dust and lint with compressed air to see if
that fixes the motor.
The "run" winding is permanently connected. The "start" switch
connects the start winding untill the motor comes up to latching speed
- then it disconnects. If the start switch does not make contact only
the run winding is energized, and the poor motor does not know which
way to turn and is incapable of producing any starting torque - so it
On Nov 25, 10:21 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
yes, the start switch should be ON when the motor is stopped.. this
connects the start winding... when you apply power, power flows
through the start switch contacts to the start winding... when the
motor starts spinning, some weights should move the start switch to
OFF and disconnect the start winding.
without the start winding the motor will hum but will not start and
will probably overheat in a short time... or you can start it by
hand as a test....
with the start winding temporarily connected, the motor will start.
if you do not disconnect the start winding once the motor starts, it
will overheat in a short time.
the start winding pulls a lot of power to get the motor started but is
not designed to be on full time
(this is a simplifed explination leaving out the part about the phase
From what you are saying these problems could be caused by a bad
switch or stuck centrifugal weights. It also sounds like I need to
understand "phase offset" in order to really understand what's wrong
here. I know a little about phases when applied to 240VAC and
generators but my mind is a blank when it comes to 120VAC.
Meanwhile, back to my search for a switch....
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