urgent help needed with fan motor today

[patliz1]

I am replacing my fan motor now and there is an extra wire that I am not sure what to do with. It is a replacement motor from AO Smith that is replacing a motor in a Rheem 90+ imperial furnace--it has an extra brown wire with white stripes. According to the diagram the white wire goes to line 1 and the brown/white wire goes to the capacitor along with the other brown wire. On the original motor the white wire went to the capacitor, along with the brown wire. The motor has this message on it " if a capacitor post is used to make common line 1 connection use same post that brown lead with white stripe is connected to" Where do I put the brown/white stripe wire?

Also, there are 4 other wires coming out of the motor--2 orange and 2 yellow. right now the orange is connected to the yellow and a yellow is connected to an orange--this is for CWSE if I want CCWSE than orange to orange and yellow to yellow. What does this mean--the direction of the rotation?

Any help would be nice before the cold sets in tonight--thanks.

[patliz1]

I have a protech UT control board and I am looking for the place to put it--I have a set of neutral spades that it can go on according to the schematics that came with the board (model 62-25341-81). would this be the correct place to hook it into. thanks for the speedy reply

[Greg O]

The two browns are capacitor wires, connect them to the capacitor. No other wires go to the capacitor. The white is 120 volt common wire hook that to the common spade on the control board. The other colors are the speed wires, put one wire each on the appropriate terminal of the control board. Greg

[patliz1]

sorry guys--I do have some brains--everything is working ok now, fan is blowing the way it should be, new motor is exactly what was called for in replacing exisitng fan. Did a lot of research on that one first. I just like to make sure I get it right the first time--I rather ask questions if i am not 100 percent sure just to confirm myself. I am tired of paying a repair man a lot of money for something simple and especially since it is hard to trust anybody these days. Just had my house remodeled and I wish I did it myself, the workers were terrible--no sense of pride in their work. Anyway the pdf file from FASCO put it in a clearer picture. Thanks for the info anyway.

[steve]

OHHHH...one of the EXPENSIVE boards...

Your best bet, since you are going to have two speeds needed, high for cool, and low for heat, and there are two leads on the board for that, is not to use the neutral leads on the board, but to simply tie the white lead to the neutral in the J box...as you will have several off of it already more than likely.

>

[steve]

What might be funny is if he has the wrong rotation as well...or wrong RPM. He thinks hes got issues now...LOL

[steve]

Well...I mean...there IS a wiring diagram on the side of the motor. And most of those come packed with a sheet that shows how to hook up the caps to the replacement motor. Personally, I really prefer when possible to replace motors with the factory replacement, simply due to the fact that you do not have to go matching HP, RD, RPM, SF and frame size. You just go in, get the factory unit, and bingo..done. I love what Yorks gone to with the new AOSmith motors....you pull two wires up to the board, plug them in, and then, plug the other lead into the motor, in the speed location you need. Real simple. Real neat, and no extra wires to get pulled into the cage and short out. Plus, as a stocking Source One dealer, makes inventory short and sweet. Now..what if this guy had gotten a multi HP motor? LOL...a Rescue can drive a good tech to pulling his hair out.

[steve]

So, you didnt pay more than $29 for that motor right?

And no...that motor ISNT exactly what is called for on that unit. That is a replacement, just like an AOSmith or GE, or the like makes. A factory replacement has the same wires, same wiring color, and connections if any on it. they also dont make you fab new harnesses.

Reason I know that motor isnt the right one, rather, a direct factory motor is that around these parts, Rheem/Ruud used to be king, back before the current owner of the dealership here now ruined the rep they had, and Rheem is high on our replacement list.

Its also high on our scrap list...but glad you got it working, glad you are satisfied with it, and glad you didnt have any problems....other than not knowing how to wire it, and smart enough to ask for help.

Now....not being a smartass, but did you check the heat rise after you did all this to insure you didnt overcorrect for an aged motor and adjust the unit as needed to correct for more airflow?

If you didnt, honestly, you havent completed the job.

[Travis Jordan]

See page 36-37.

[steve]

And now they are learning why to do a job right, and safely costs about as much as they pay for parts at a wholesaler, that wont sell wholesale to non trained persons..:)

I always like the guys with heat pumps that put the wrong RPM motor back on them..:)

[Travis Jordan]

If you couldn't follow the pictorial on the motor (or the information on the Fasco link that was posted here) you shouldn't be messing with it.

[Travis Jordan]

It sure sounds like a classic case of a homeowner over their head, doesn't it?

[Bubba]

Heat rise? hehehe. He didnt even know where the wires went. These guys are great for entertainment Bubba

[Fred]

Ignore these low-life trailer park hacks. Keeping them out of your home is the best thing a home owner can do. They lack moral and ethical principles.

You did good.

Fred.

[steve]

Another person who found out that it costs for service...and is still bitter about it heard from...LOL

[J]

I had to replace the blower motor in my Carrier unit. The old motor quit after working perfectly for 25 years. The old motor was a ball bearing unit which would cost several hundred dollars for a direct replacement. At least according to a check on internet sites that sell Carrier units. I went to the local supply and bought a AOSmith motor for 60 bucks and put it in. It works fine. It will be hard to oil it later as there is a lot of sheet metal around it that has to be removed. Probably why the original motor was ball bearing. But will probably replace whole system before I need to replace motor again.

J

[J]

Yes, but the house was getting kind of cold! I would have had to go to the city to get one and the sleeve bearing motor sure is a lot quieter. So I may get a ball bearing the next time if this one doesn't last.

J

[Travis Jordan]

For about another six bucks you could have had the ball bearing version of the same motor.

[Travis Jordan]

I think you were right originally...with good airflow over the motor housing it is likely that this one will outlast the rest of the air handler (even without oiling, assuming that there are oil point on the sleeves).