I'm going to install a sediment filter after my water softener which runs to my well. An ideal place would be just above the softener tank, but the particular location would require me to add at least two more (3/4" copper) elbows. Given the effects adding bends has on air- ducting, I'd expect it would have a negative effect on water flow as well. Or am I exaggerating the importance of this?
Thanks!
Mark
I don't think it would do that much. Could you use a flex hose and tie it inline? Might make the filter easier to service, too.
Steve
Not of great importance. It's akin to adding a few more feet of straight run. The resistance of the filter itself will outweigh the effect of 2 EL's.
Jim
Wouldn't it make more sense to install the filter before the water softener?
Two elbows won't be noticed. OTOH, the filter should be before the softener to prevent sediment from gunking up the softener valves.
Also, I don't understand why a softener would run to the well. The well line should run to the softener. Either your plumbing or your sentence structure is incorrect.
Elbow away, they'll make no difference.
I think as others have said, you probably won't notice too much difference in water flow.
But, if you're anal about minimizing the pressure drop and don't mind paying a couple of bucks more for the parts, then spring for larger radius "long turn" elbows like these:
Jeff
Excellent -- thanks!
I'll answer some questions --
1) Yes, it's my sentence structure. I'm talking about "runs" as in "the pipe runs" -- not the water itself. The well goes to the softener. 2) I'm putting the filter after the softener because the filter is a fine porosity with a charcoal element, which I think wouldn't last nearly as long if the softener is not removing some of the minerals, etc.. And the last softener we rented from Eco never had any problems with our water for at least 15 years. Plus, the location I have in mind is right at eye level under the light, so checking the filter should be a breeze. 3) I checked several manufacturers (which is likely also overkill, since I didn't see any difference). I saw that the "Omni" looks pretty much like all the others -- GE, Culligan, etc. -- but was a couple bucks cheaper, and transparent (a plus, I think). The replacement filters, however, had the same specs, but the others were between 10 and 35 bucks for replacements, while the Omni at Menards was 3-5 bucks, same specs. If this is temporary, or if there really is a difference, at least I've got the plumbing done. 4) I stayed away from flex tubing for the same reason I've done so in furnace ducting -- kinetc and viscous friction through the corrugated, bendable hose. This may have been my exaggeration of the importance as well. I guess from what everyone's said, viscous friction is of less significance in water compared to air due to the energy consumed in moving the mass of water. I found the equivalence of an elbow to the effects of a length of straight pipe to be very informative, too!Thanks again!
Mark
Can't say much about hte housing and I'm not familir with ti. I'd only have a transparent one myself. As for element brands, I buy what I get at a good price. For sediment, the brand does not seem to matter at all and I've been using filters for about 20 years now. The kitchen filter though, I've had better luck with Instapure charcoal filters for long life over other brands.
Absolutely. You don't want sediment contaminating the resin bed.
Rob
yes you are.
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