Tecumseh governor

I'm trying to figure out if I have a failed governor on a Tecumseh/Sears push mower engine.
The other day it failed due to what I think was dirty fuel, very likely related to a similar generator problem I had recently. It started then died and would not restart. Not even a sputter. And no gurgling sounds on pushing the primer so something was clearly up with gas flow.
I drained the gas tank and flushed it out. I took the carb off--this is a float valve / primer bulb / non adjustable type and removed the float chamber. I hooked up the tank, put a little gas in and played a bit with the float, observing it allowing gas flow when down and stopping it when up. Whatever dirt there was is probably gone by now and that was probably all that was needed.
So I put it all back on the mower and it started up just fine. One problem though: Overspeed and no reaction to the Idle/Run control lever.
Ah, I figure, I musta hooked something up wrong as it's been a long time since I had one of those off. So I checked it. Can't find anything wrong and there aren't all that many ways to hook it up: Lever from the back of the control to short reach wire to spring to governor arm. Then long reach wire from governor arm back to the throttle valve. I tried all sort of things including weakening the spring but no dice. I can of course throttle it by pushing on the throttle valve or governor lever but no sign of normal operation. I even tried an identical carb I had on the shelf from a long gone mower but no change.
The idea that the internal part of the governor would go bad at the same moment there was some kind of carb/dirt issue doesn't seem very likely but that's where I'm at now. I would like to prove that it does or doesn't work.
So besides looking for suggestions on what I might have hooked up wrong I'm looking for a way to show if the internal governor mechanism is working or not.
Altering the load on the engine while being able to observe the governor lever isn't too easy or safe on a lawn mower so with a normally running engine one can prove governor operation by artificially choking the engine. When the bad fuel/air mix causes the engine to slow you can see the governor pushing the throttle wide open in an attept to maintain speed.
But that's no good here where the gov is already pushing the throttle too far open.
So here's my idea: Disconnect all linkages and work the throttle valve by hand. If I put a finger on the governor lever, pushing slightly to the left (like the spring would) if I run the engine and rev the engine from idle up to normal speed or a little beyond I should feel the governor lever pulling to the right, as though trying to reduce throttle, yes? Better yet keep fingers away and tie a mild rubber band on it. As I vary speed it the lever should move back and forth and if it doesn't something internal is wrong that I probably don't want to bother with. If it does work the way it should then I know I've done something else wrong. Does that make sense?
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The governor is just a paddle that gets pushed on by the air from the vanes on the magneto. 2-3 bolts and you can lift the entire cooling/start-rope cover and eyeball that all is well with it.
However, if you just remove the spring to the throttle linkage from the governor arm, and the gov. arm swings free, its probably OK.
Are there multiple holes for hooking linkages and springs into?
D
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No, Tecumseh engines have a little flyweight centrifugal governor that is internal to the engine. The motion of the weights operates a small shaft that penetrates the crankcase wall and has a small lever attached to it. This is right behind the air cleaner. The B&S engine on my generator has a similar arrangement. I know the air vane governors exist but not on the stuff I've worked with.
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you probably hooked up the linkage wrong . you could get a manual,or look at another engine to figure it out. i have been taking a video of engines before i take them apart....very helpfull on the dt466 i rebuilt this week. lucas
http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm
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if you move the gov by hand does it slow the engine down?
remember when the engine is stopped, the gov will move all the way calling for full throttle and as the engine speeds up it will move so as to reduce throttle...
it is easy to hook it up wrong or with the wrong length so that it is out of range.
Mark
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The Tecumseh manuals are available on the net (for about $7 IIRC).
I had a similar problem with a 6HP Craftsman chipper (Tecumseh motor). Turned out that at some point (perhaps before I retrieved it from my dad), one of the adjustment screws had been screwed in so far that the governor couldn't reduce the speed. I thought the governor was broken, and went thru readjusting it (according to the manual), before I noticed the adjustment screw was preventing the governor slowing the engine down. Doh!
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
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I tried again this morning and did my little test and sure enough there was some pullback from the governor lever when I rev'd it so I tried fooling with the linkages again and while it's still not exactly right I think it's going to be ok. I was able to use the mower at a regulated speed.
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replying to Steve Kraus, 'Drew wrote:

had an issue with an internal governor took all linkage off turned the arm coming out of the block counter clockwise it should rest on the spool instead it spun all the way around opened the engine and saw even the camshaft had damage from the implosion never seen that before??
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On 5/19/2015 1:44 PM, 'Drew wrote:

Translated into female speak: (a little tongue in cheek humor, here)
<female speak> "had a problem with (god knows what that is) that took all the (connections apart) and (turned off something that looks like an arm thingy) out of the (square-ish thing that counts) clockwise {{DEEP BREATHE}} (should sit on top of a spool [like a bobbin or something?])
ummm Something about the spool spun around the engine and saw a (not sure what THAT is -camshaft) that was broken from the implosion it couldn't see before it happened?"
</female speak>
--
rebel

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