Every year after I prep my swamp cooler for another summer - clean, lube,
new pads, etc. - I notice that when I first turn on the blower I get a
large amount of grit/dust blown into my house. Where does this come from?
Pieces of fiber from the pads? Flakes of calcium from my hard well water?
Is there an easy way to catch these so they won't blow into the house?
Any way to avoid them? I see this sometimes during the summer when the
cooler has been off a few days too.
Just bought a new place about 8 months ago, and have the need to turn on the
swamp cooler, which are not common here in AZ. The cooler seems to work
fine. It blows cold air, etc. However, every once and a while, a large
amount of water will be discharged out the discharge hose (or whatever it's
called, it's a pvc pipe). Some of the research I've seen said this can be
normal. Some other research said I may have a problem with my float. Anybody
have any experience with this?
you didn't tell us what brand you have, its gonna be a major guessing game.
Obvious first cause: It may have a "purge" pump installed, which
periodically dumps the mineral rich water in the pan down the drain. Its
purpose is to delay mineral buildup on the the pads.
A constant trickle would indicate that the float is either stuck open or
set too high. If it only happens when the cooler is running it may have
a "bleed off" to dump a portion of the mineral rich water.
Grandpa Koca - SAHD for 6 - Keeper of the Perpetual Kindergarten
My opinion is neither copyrighted nor trademarked. It is price
No maintenance on the unit and you just turned it on.... Ok. It will not
last long that way
Now days there are two pumps in coolers. One to cycle the water over pad.
The other one dumps the pan water out ever so often, some are as little as 4
hours and I have seen 12 hour ones. This pump will look exactly (to the
untrained eye) like the circulating pump.
In my coolers I used a pump that would dump the water every 8 hours of run
time. It sure helps keep the crud down.
Your cooler should be 100% checked out before you run it every year. Cleaned
top to bottom, new layer of asphalt in the water pan, bearings oiled, belts
checked and or tightened just to hit the high points.
The master cool type pad can last 3-4 years if maintained. The fibrous
(aspen pads) need to be changed yearly.
Do you have up ducts in your home? Venting the air into the attic helps a
lot. Cools the attic and then makes the home more comfortable. Leaving
windows open is dangerous now days. If you have a hall gas heater open the
door up, and let the air exhaust there.
Hint you need one up duct for every 12 inches of register length or fraction
I have lived in AZ for 35 years now.
I'm pretty sure it's purging the water since it occurs at certain times, and
for certain periods of time. We'll have a guy out to look at it. I did have
one question though: Why is opening the windows dangerous. We do have the
vents that lead up to the attic, but I have also been leaving a window open.
Dangerous in what way?
Burglars love open windows.
Force as much of the air into the attic as you can. It will help your run
time. ( how long you can run your cooler. I used to try to get to 4th of
Do not for get to install the slides when you change over to the a/c.
Ah. I wasn't sure if you mean dangerous in another way.
Good question. Since this is the first time we've had a swamp cooler, not
sure. Will we know when we cannot run it (that is, will it stop blowing cold
Regarding the closing slides, not sure what those are. Are those the vents
to the attic?
In re open windows: another option if it's "dangerous" to open windows
where you live is to open the fireplace damper if you have one.
More or less. If it's too humid the swamper will be ineffective. Also,
according to your personal heat tolerance, you may find A/C preferable
if it gets very hot as a swamper usually only lowers the temp 12-15
Sort of.. Really depends on how bad they are. If you can see calicum when
they are wet ,,,, bad sign.
The box stores and Pauls Hardware as well as 6 points sell a "cooler
cleaner" by the quart.
Sumphic acid.. and that is spell wrong. I used to pour the whole bottle in
the cooler before I cleaned it out. I know the directions say like half.
Run the cooler for at least an hour. Drain and clean. I use the shop vac.
If the particles on the pad come off; great. If not then you need to decide
if your buying a new pad this year or next. My last 7" pad was just short
of a $100 bucks. I tried the cheapy replacement one ONCE. Get the good
stuff and take care of it.
If your pad is white/chalky when dry not dark paper color forget and buy a
pad now. I went to help a friend once with the understanding that we were
going to fix it right. I took one look at the pad and pulled the top and
threw it away. He freeked. When the new pad was in he remarked "wow there
is a lot of air coming out of that now. "
if you have sliding windows and you want to leave them open a few
inches, get some 1x2 or or similar wood and cut it to length and lay it
in the window tracks so that the window cannot be opened more.
Ahhhh. Time of year again to duel with the swampers. I got two. Next time
up there, pull a pad. Look through any of the others and see how much sky
you can see. This is just a big opening where dust can blow in during the
winter and when the cooler is off during the summer. Plus, when you service
it, you knock stuff loose. Two things you can do: First, cover your cooler
in winter. Second, some have a slider piece of sheet metal you can insert
to cut off the air duct plenum.
You are not the first I've heard problems like this, and previously
interested in duct cleaning, I've learned this:
I was told that when you first clean out pads, you take out the old
ones that were restricting air flow. As the old ones get older, the
air flow decreases allowing for 'stuff' to become settled out. When
you put in a new pad, now the air flow is full power, and will blow
out the 'stuff' that has previously settled.
I've heard DIY ways to prepare for this, one I thought the funniest:
If you have one duct into the house, tape on an old set of panty-hose.
Start the system up, bang on the unit and the exposed duct work, and
then remove the pantyhose when all the loose material has left the
tom @ www.NoCostAds.com
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