Steel Stud Question?

What type of screws are used to attach drywall to them? Do you use screws on corner bead or is it best to use a corner bead crimp tool? I'm doing a commercial entry into a boat showroom that someone clipped removing a boat from that showroom. The owner asked if I can enlarge the entry but I'm wondering how the opening is supported. King stud, jack stud and header comes to mind. I have done lots of stick framing but never any steel stud.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks again, Rich
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No personal experience here beyond watching an amazingly fast crew my former employer hired to put up a secure partition for our computer room. They used screws which had a self-drilling tip to fasten the drywall to the studs and a different sort of screw to put the studs and channels together.
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John McGaw
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Steel,wood; same same as long as it is not structural. You will know if it is structural, studs will be reddish or another color than shiny and much thicker material. You will not be able to twist them. Self tapping screws are used for both applications. Really short, 1/4 inch Phillips round head black framing screws to attach the studs to the tracks. 1 inch Phillips, counter sunk self taping for 1/2 inch drywall. Longer if your using 5/8 or 3/4 inch drywall. If you have lots of screws to install buy a screw gun, much faster than a drill. Cutting with a fiber blade on a skill saw or chop saw. Plumb and square is more important in steel than in wood.
Any fire code issues with the larger opening?
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SQLit wrote:

This is an existing opening about 10' used to move power boats in and out of a showroom. Does not appear to be structural since the building is a tilt up. Just a partion wall that goes from floor to ceiling 16 feet. Also the studs have no color. The opening is narrow and one of the guys clipped the edge of the opening bending the steel stud and causing drywall damage. The owner asked if I could enlarge the opening allowing more room to maneuver. I can't see the top portion of the damaged stud to see how it supports the header. If the header or beam is supported further back of the damaged stud then I should be able to move the opening back to those support studs, right? Then the job would be easy. All I would have to do is install a piece of drywall on the edge of the good stud and header, corner bed, joint it and finish texture. And of course this is what the owner wants. If I have to replace the damaged stud and match the texture of wall, could be more work.
Do you use screws on the corner bead or compression tool.
Thanks again, Rich
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"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
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