Small Slab Removal

I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model HR2455 that draws 7amps.
Thanks.
JP
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Jay Pique wrote:

I have one of the Pit-Bull hammers and it is quite capable but it gets pretty slow in the heavy going. If I were doing what you describe I'd hit the slab first with the biggest concrete-cutting device I could find. First choice would be something like a rental Stihl concrete saw http://www.stihlusa.com/construction/TS400.html to at least score the slab deeply if it didn't actually cut all the way through. After scoring, getting a clean break is dead simple. Rental for an afternoon shouldn't be ruinously expensive.
--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
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I second using this kind of tool.
I have used one of these saws many times cutting through poured concrete and block. It cuts like going through butter as long as you don't force it.
Wear a dust mask, it going to make alot of dust.
With the right touch it might take 30 minutes to an hour.
Drilled holes and sledge would take all day a hammer and chisel you would take forever.

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I did something like this once using a masonary blade in a circular saw.
way easier than any other way.
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I used an angle grinder with a diamond blade in it. And it was rather easy. I didn't have a big enough blade to saw through the whole thing, I scored it maybe only 1/3 of the way through, but the rest (below the cut) broke off easily and cleanly.
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wrote:

You might get by a few times, but this will surely kill a circular saw after just so much.
I had a ancient B&D 7" saw and I scored a few pavers and I could tell a difference when the dust got into the motor. I did use it a few more times to cut through stucco, chicken wire and foam. I gave it to a friend and it's on the last leg.
Oren "My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore excused from saving Universes."
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My B&D is 36 yrs old. It was semi-retired about 20 yrs ago & I put a diamond blade in it about 6 yrs ago. I probably use it once or twice a year to cut a block, rock, or brick, or put a groove in some concrete. After a couple hundred feet of scoring concrete I finally replaced the first diamond blade. It makes a horrendous noise when it starts and stops--- but it *does* still start and run. [oh yeah-- it was also my go-to saw when I used a plywood blade to cut up a 275 gallon oil barrel, and the old water heater.]
When it does finally croak, if I don't go first, I might have it bronzed.
Jim
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On Sat, 20 May 2006 23:23:06 GMT, "Cliff Hartle"

And he wouldn't get a clean cut like a saw would do.
I've seen gas powered saws, but I suppose they have electric too.

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You SHOULD use a concrete saw. If you're going to use a hammer and or drill, take 2 feet off, and then cast a new edge.
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On Sat, 20 May 2006 23:23:06 GMT, "Cliff Hartle"
They can be rented, used and normally returned by Noon. They make quick work of the job.

We did a complete remodel for our master bath and cut the portion of the foundation out to change plumbing, etc. The room had up two plastic barriers to help control the dust. We even ran a big shop-vac near the cut line to also help keep the dust down, but my pad is 8" thick and produced plenty of dust.
The room was vented to the outside to reduce the fumes, gases, etc. They burn the oxygen out of the room and I can only hold my breath for a short time.
Outside, a water hose can be used to wet the stuff down.
Messy, but a clean cut.
Oren
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Rebar will be a problem.

Yes,do it the easiest way possible.
--
Jim Yanik
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Jim Yanik wrote:

Yes, you're right. I'm definitely going to cut it, and I'm fairly confused with my mind for not having thought that from the beginning. I've been reading about using concrete anchors set in epoxy and I think I've had hammer drills on the mind or something. Plus, I don't have a target saw so when your only tool's a hammer everything looks like a nail!
JP
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Jim Yanik wrote:

For a diamond blade?

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--John
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then you -have- to cut all the way through. You can't just score and break if there's uncut rebar.

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Jim Yanik
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Jim Yanik wrote:

So, which would you rather do, cut 2/3 of the way through then break up the remainder with a sledge or hammer and chisel, or go all the way through with hammer and chisel?
How would _you_ deal with this particular problem?

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--John
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