sliding door question

we have seven standard double-pane sliding doors on the first floor of our box-house. the two on the sun-porch have gotten very flaky especially during the winter. one quit sliding completely last winter, and i sealed/taped it shut last november... vizqueened it kept the heat in. Ya, i've tried to remove it... lift up with gigantic screwdrivers, pound with angled prybars but without success... it's about 1/8" short of coming out. The glass is ok but the vacuum seal is broken. My solution has been to remove it, have it resealed at a local window shop, replace the lower (brass) roller whose size i still don't know, but will surely discover once i remove the door... now, i got the bigger problem... namely, the lower aluminum track seems worn out. My question (if i succeed with all the above) can i weld an iron or aluminum rod (same diam as what was once there) to the lower frame of the door to make the door slide smoothly as it once did (12-15 years ago) i'm ready to explore any way to reclaim this door, anything, less that buying and installing two new sliding door ($700) cause they're a matched pair. I'm in no hurry, but my wife doesn't like this scene... it's *not* pristine... what ever is?

any suggestions are appreciated... really wondering about reclaiming that lower door track!!

thanks

Reply to
AND Books
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To my knowledge there is no way to "reseal" a thermalpane glazing unit. Replacement is your only option.

CR Lawrence is a wholesaler. They do show replacement track and replacement rollers. I don't know if you can buy from them as an individual, I doubt it.

A brand new set of doors at Lowes to replace your sliding patio doors is between 250 and 600 dollars depending on several variables. You will spend the 250 on parts and pieces for what you have. Your choice. ______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

Reply to
DanG

On Wed, 12 Jul 2006 07:05:04 +0000, AND Books broke out their crayolas and scribbled:

Most of the adjusters I've seen are screws that are located at the bottom edge or through a hole in the bottom edge of the door to move the roller up and down by some fashion of a cam action. You usually have to back off this cam screw to lower the door in order to pick up the door and remove it from the track to replace the rollers. After replacing the rollers you adjust the door height so the door can't be lifted up and removed.

Our sliding glass doors used to take two hands to slide open and shut and were noisy as hell. The house was built in '59 and the rollers had wore out a couple of times, but the track was the real problem. Replacement roller kits are available at HD & Lowes. Remove the old rollers and take them with you because there are different size and style of rollers available. The last time I repaired the doors I drew a profile of the bottom track the door rides on and was able to find a new piece of track. The track being damaged was the problem with the rollers failing every couple of years. once the track was replaced the doors can be slid open with a finger and is almost silent. Finding the right aluminum track extrusion is the main problem.

I lucked out and found a piece that matched what I had at a place that salvages windows, doors, plumbing, what have you. Paid $8.00 for a six foot piece a year ago, that was "new old stock" that I was able to match to the profile of the track I already had on the floor.

I believe the big box stores carry some extrusions for the brands of doors that they carry or can still order it. I recomend that you try and find the extrusion for replacing your doors bottom track if possible.

Adjuster image

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single adjusters w/Nylon wheels
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Single adjusters w/steel wheels
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Rollers/ wheels
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Google / images = sliding glass door rollers produced above results for a start.

Reply to
______?

There is a replacement track that mounts right on top of the old track and screws in place - we didn't see it at any stores, but door contractor did something to wheels and gave us the track to install ourselves. Don't recall the issue with the wheels for ours - something unique that they could not be replaced.

Reply to
Norminn

Unless you live where heating and cooling is not an issue look into new doors, LowEargon glass, less air infiltration and frames that transmit less can cut 10-20$ a month from each door in energy loss, your payback might not be long unless you live in Hawaii where utilities are not an issue. Door construction energy wise has improved dramaticly over what you have, which is just inneficient leaking junk.

Reply to
m Ransley

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