Sharp Microwave does not work

Hi, I have a couple-year-old Sharp Carousel R1480 microwave. The electric control panel works well. But I have push the door up every time to make the microwave working. Any one knows the possible reason and how to fix it?
Thank you,
Terry
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On 9/25/2014 5:44 PM, Terry wrote:

What do you mean by "push the door up"? Does this mean "Push the door closed"? If so, then it is likely that one of the safety interlock switches is defective or maladjusted. Most of the older Sharp units had a rough wiring diagram inside the case showing where the switches and stuff are but IF YOU ARE NOT QUALIFIED, DO NOT OPEN THE CASE! Doing something stupid inside a microwave can be lethal.
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replying to BenignBodger , Terry wrote:

Re: The door can be closed well. It needs to push the door up to start heating. Do you think it is due to some misalignment for some switch? where are the switches located and how to fix it?
thanks
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On 9/25/2014 4:44 PM, Terry wrote:

I'd open it up and look at the door switch. Be careful because there is a high voltage capacitor. It might just need to be tightened or replaced. There are several videos on YouTube for troubleshooting microwaves. I did not see any specific to "Sharp".
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Terry wrote:

Door interlock switches. Usually there are two.
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I think in the US, 3 such switches are required. They chould be easy to check the microwave unplugged and the door shut in a way that doesn't allow the oven to turn on. (You could test that when the oven is plugged in, but don't forget to unplug it.)
It sounds like a misalighed switch to me. Each switch is mounted with two screws but there's probably an oblong hole somewhere for each which allows for some adjusting. The switches are like black, or black and read, rectangular on all 6 sides, not counting some rounded corners.
Each switch probably has 3 places to attach wires, but only two of them with wires attached. The wire connectors will have plactic, probably clear plastic around them, but you can slide the meter probes underneat that. They will all be close to the door.
The ohmmeter or continuity tester will tell you which switch is still open when the door is shut. If you loosen one screw a little and, if need be, the other screw even less, and everything is very quiet, as you push the switch a trifle closer to the door, you might hear the switch click when it goes from open to closed. Or maybe not because you're ear with be as much as a foot away or more.
Use an awl or a nail to outline where each switch is before you start moving anything. So you can put them back where they were. Don't mess with the other parts. You don't even need to touch them.
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On Thursday, September 25, 2014 4:44:01 PM UTC-5, Terry wrote:

Yes, the interlocks are not for the door being closed...so much as forced c losed with something (like a towel) jammed on one side. On our Panasonic th ere is one micro-switch on the top latch and two on the bottom. The one on the top looked overheated...and when removed it broke in-half. I had one (f rom repair days) and it is again salvage from the recycler.
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