Replacing water pressure regulator

Gotta replace the leaky water pressure regulator in my basement. It's mounted near the ceiling along a straight run of 3/4" copper pipe. At first glance, I thought it required soldering (a skill I've never bothered to learn in 30 years of owning a home). But, on closer inspection, I noticed that the regulator has wrench fittings, and that the pipes are threaded in, not soldered. The fittings are a part of the cast body, not rotating compression collars.
So, my next thought was that the pipes must've been rotated into place at the regulator, and soldered at the opposite ends where they meet their next junction. But, that seemed silly. Then, I figured maybe the threads in the regulator body were designed so that turning the regulator would cause the pipes on both sides to tighten simultaneously, like a turnbuckle. This would eliminate soldering.
Now we need Jimmy the Greek: What are the odds that this repair is as easy as it sounds?
I'll throw in another factor: I'm in Rochester NY. This weekend, it may FINALLY get over 40 degrees, so in theory, I could get out of this $!~*&^ HOUSE and go FISHING. This usually means that the aforementioned repair will be cursed by demons and end up taking 6 hours, instead of the 1/2 hour that it should take.
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I took a look at my pressure regulator, which I put in last year. One side has a built in union for making your final connection. Are you familiar with unions?
I put a union on the other side also; though I can't remember why. Means I can pull it out in 2 minutes, but seems like a waste of money. Oh well.
It is too early for warm weather. Have you tried skiing in slush?
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Some have unions, some do not. Sounds like doug has a non-union regulator. He needs a plumber to rip the scab out. :-) Then get the plumber to put in a good union regulator.
Stretch
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