Even if I found what the air infiltration rate should be of the
window, I have no idea how to test it.
After doing a bit of investigation this weekend (since it was
55degrees out), I think I might have found the issue. There is a slit
on the outside of the window at the bottom of the casing that is not
caulked. I belive it is not caulked to allow water to seep out. This
looks like it would allow air to enter the side cavities. I don't
think I want to caulk the outside casing since I would want water to
drain, but I think it would be safe to caulk the inside of the
cavity. I'll have to do more research tonight. I'm going to take
leaf blower to different areas of the window and see where its getting
A Silverline rep is coming out today. I'm almost positive that its
from the weep holes. The windows are Silverline 2900 single hung. I
found the model number on the window. They are definately not their
cheapest builder grade windows. "Our Premier New Construction Single
Silverline rep just left about an hour ago. He replaced the felt pile
with stuff twice the thickness. He said that the state of Illinois
allows a 12% infiltration rate on windows. I live in a middle of a
subdivision with no houses built around me yet. He said, until the
houses around me are built up, with the winds in the open fields
around my house gusting, you're always going to feel a small amout of
air. He claims no window can keep all the air out.
I think it comes down to the fact that I have cheap builder grade
How do you do an air infiltration test? He said that the only way
these tests are done, are in the lab. He said there is no way to
actually test the actual percentage of air getting through a window at
a homeowners house.
Casements usualy have the best ratings in sealing out air leaks, when
I called pella they said no you should not feel any air, they came out
and fixed a few, your window rates as good as silverline casements ,
which I think is an excellant rating, the fact he did repairs tells
you something. But I still say only with 30-35 mph gusts should you
feel anything. If they leak in moderate wind they need to be fixed,
you have a lifetime warranty but need help figuring it out, the test
is done in a lab, You could get a blower door test done for maybe 300,
it will give a readout of house air exchanges per hour and the tech
goes around with a smoke stick pinpointing leaks and how good or bad
your home is overall and if he thinks windows are affecting
performance. Why didnt this rep schedule fixing all your leakers.
Anderson just bought SilverLine in 2006, and, according to this press
release, the operate the company as a "stand alone subsidiary."
I haven't noticed a difference in quality from before Anderson bought
them 'til now. They are an inexpensive, perfect for a builder. Not
necessarily bad, but not top end either.
To the OP - I would expect that the hvac guy told you that the t-stat
is capable (internally) of reading down to a tenth of a degree. It
will run the furnace as necessary, sometimes in short cycles, to keep
the house at the setpoint of the t-stat. This is done for your
comfort, as wide swings would be annoying.
I think most thermostats have an adjustment that determines how far
off the setpoint it allows the temp to drift before taking action. So
for example if you set it to 68, will it allow the temperature to
drift down to 67.5, or 67, or 66 before kicking on the furnace,
depends on this adjustment. I know my old cheapo Honeywell round
thermostat had this, but you had to take the cover off to monkey with
it. If you feel it is cycling on an off too much, adjusting the drift
setting may help with that.
"Setback" usually refers to a feature on the thermostat that allows
you to set the temp to different values for different periods of the
day. So for example you can set it to go down at night, and perhaps
during the middle of the day if no one is home then, but be toasty in
the morning and evening when you are up and around. -- H
Here is a hint for instalation quality. 1st if any window is out more
than 1/8" in plumb, - level or square it is not even in warranty now
or ever was , because of defective installation....
Second get manufacturers guarnteed ratings for CDF, Air infiltration,
U Value, R value, and do some looking. Im in Chcgo area and it sounds
like you got all of the cheapest stuff not rated "Energy Star"
Unforatuly only an uninformed puts in an 80% efficient furnace in
Chicago in 2007.
An oversized furnace cycles more and at moderate temps may rarely get
to be near rated efficency, [ why anyone is even allowed to use or
sell an 80% unit in Chicago is dumb, but im stupid] Get window info
online and warranty. Get furnace date online. Measure attic insulation
depth youself. Measure windows for Plumb -level - square yourself and
dont tell him, it could be an install issue. Check out warranty
yourself by calling the window co. Did you know England does not
allow non condensing units even though temps dont get much below
freezing. Thank your EPA and George W Bush for this stupidity. So
think for maybe 500 more, or a few hundred if only condensing units
were sold you Would be saving 11-16% a month , depending on what model
you chose, at 200-300 im guessing 15% is alot..
Why would the builder not want to have these issues fixed? The
company that installed the windows are responsible for their
worksmanship. If the window is out of plumb, level or square, the
installers should come back out and fix it and he shouldn't be out
anything... at the least he is gaining a happy customer... or am I
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