problems with silicone caulk

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Fletch wrote:

Is this indoors? Outdoors? Painted wood? Silicone is probably a poor choice for either of these - paintable would be my choice for painted wood. To answer the question, it sounds like you have a bad tube, which may be outdated. I've used GE and DAP, never a problem with caulk setting but for one time I applied it improperly. I don't have a favorite brand, and have done lots of caulking.
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wrote:

Well my house is mostly brick except around 2 windows in the front ...so yes this will be painted.
thanks, Fletch
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Frequent problem with GE caulks...usually due to it being expired (a lot more than days though).
I got burned ONCE. From the mouth of GE support: Put some on scrap. If it does not skin in 30-45min under normal conditions then it's NG
I now do this even with brand new tubes I've just opened.
GE recommends isopropyl alcohol to aid in removal of uncured caulk.
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I wouldn't use silicone under any circumstance unless it was one of the Dow Corning professional caulks - 795 works well if you use the proper primers and cleaners for most substrates. Silicone is junk caulk other than these.
If you would like to caulk it one time that will last the rest of your lifetime, use a good polyurethane caulk like Sonneborn's NP-1 or Tremco's Vulkem 116. Both products are paintable if that is part of the consideration.
These statements assume you know how to install caulk properly. Caulk should only bond to 2 clean and dry surfaces. Backer rod or bond breaker tape should be used in the bottom of the joint to prevent 3 point contact. Few people can gun an acceptable joint, so masking tape before application is prudent. Caulk striking tools are easier on the fingers than wiping joints by finger tip.
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I think they offer caulking classes at Juilliard. It truly is an art form. ;-)
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Where can I get the Dow stuff???
I am no pro by no means and for now I went back with what worked for me in the past which is the Dap stuff. The GE II stuff had not dried *at all* which made it pretty easy to remove.
Fletch

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X-No-Archive: Yes
So far I have 2 tubes of Ge II that were bad. Could be they were just a bad lot but right now I am a bit wary about using it again.
These pics are not from the window I had problems with yesterday but rather 2 of my kitchen windows. You can see how the caulk broke up and looks burnt. The brownish caulk beside it is the original afaik ,
http://n4szo.servebbs.net/house/CIMG1573.JPG
http://n4szo.servebbs.net/house/CIMG1574.JPG
http://n4szo.servebbs.net/house/CIMG1578.JPG
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Fletch wrote:

Try a good polyurethane caulk next time.
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Is that like Heavy duto Liquid nails? If so I have tested that for small wood repairs and it does seem to work well other than it gets really hard.
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Fletch wrote:

No, not as far as I know. Adhesives tend to get a lot harder than caulks.
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Fletch wrote:

GE's website is confusing on the issue of keeping water out. FWIW, if you click on the links you can find their FAQ's about problems with caulk - includes a phone number to call if you have outdated caulk: http://gesealants.com/waterproof_lead-in.html
http://gesealants.com/sil2_window_door.html
http://gesealants.com/faqs_troubleshooting.html
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LaurenceS had written this in response to http://www.thestuccocompany.com/maintenance/problems-with-silicone-caulk-398052-.htm : Same problem. It's been 2 1/2 days and the caulk GE Silicone II) is still as sticky as when we applied it. Expiration date: 12/2010. I went online and so far have found only this site mentioning the problem. Returning the caulk is probably not a problem but redoing the whole bathroom! I got it at Do It Center and the lady who helped knew where things were but otherwise was a lot more interested in talking with a cat that roams the store! I should have known better!:-) GE should withdraw this stuff from the market. Thanks, Laurence
Fletch wrote:

------------------------------------- LaurenceS
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