Plumbing Question


I need to replace the washers in my shower handle and am wondering how to get to the washer. There doesnt seem to be a small screw holing the scution cap on, just caulk. There is a cap that is on the very end of the handle that I assume comes off as well. There is seperate H and C and they leak when on.
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On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 17:30:49 -0800 (PST), thebigguy

Pop the cap off, take out the screw and then cut the caulk around ""scution".... won't matter the order as long as the H or C is done first with the water off.
IOW, take the cap off the handle, remove it and go from there.
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thebigguy wrote:

Leaks when on? Then it's not washer. Maybe O ring or replace the whole cartridges.
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Have no idea what you specifically have but for one type, a Price Pfister:
Assuming you must remove the handle before the escutcheon comes off.
Remove the handle cap by prying off.
Remove the screw. May be easier said than done. Could be frozen     with deposits. Pull the handle off. These can be a bear if frozen with     deposits. Borrow or buy a handle puller.     http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId0988-943-03875&lpage=none
Cut the caulk around the escutcheon with a razor. It then unscrews off. Probably on a threaded piece of plastic.
-------
http://i48.tinypic.com/ek3n9t.jpg
If it leaks out of the handle ONLY when it's on then your problem is located at the blue arrow.
If it drips when shut off, the problem is at the red arrow. Entire faucet stem must be removed from to wall to replace the washer.
If I were you I would price a new stem vs repairing. They can be as little as 8 bucks depending on what you have. To me, if it costs that little it isn't worth trying to fix. It'll probably leak again shortly.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId6256-72906-ST3452&lpage=none
I used to fix them, then I got smart and just started replacing the stem, then I got smarter when I found (via this NG) the whole rebuild     kit is $35. Used to even come with the deep socket faucet wrench
    http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId5847-72906-SK0273
Of course, your brand and installation will determine good options.
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Excellent post, but I will add that you will also need a seat wrench and plumbers grease.
Also on the Price Phister you can easily mix up the hot and cold stem.
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Yep. Good to mention.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId$522-143-PP24005
And I'll further mention that on a rare occasion if the wrench steps are too long it may be necessary to cut the wrench. The tip can hit the back of the inside of the supply elbow in the wall. Warned about it but it never actually happened to me.

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Thanks for all the quick and good info...will work on it and report back!
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:
I have a photo of the setup, how can I post it?
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http://tinypic.com
No account or login required. Upload the pic. It will give you the link to it back. Just click in the one that says emails & IM's. Automatically gets copied to the clipboard. Paste that link in a NG post.
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OK here is the pic http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6
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On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 13:10:23 -0800 (PST), thebigguy
in

What others said.
Turn off the water supply
Close the tub drain (or tape it) so you don't drop the cap into the drain.
Remove the stem cap by prying it off (tip of a utility knife blade behind it) or small screwdriver.
Remove the screw and the escutcheon may just slip off after caulk is cut.
As mentioned, a whole new stem may be better.
Some stems are left/right (?) so don't get the wrong ones. Good luck.
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Looks rough there. I hope that isn't caulk where the faucet stem goes into the escutcheon. Just an FYI. Generally when I caulk the escutcheon to wall I only do it from 7 to 5 (on a clock). Idea is that if water does get behind there it will at least seep out the bottom. Don't count on it though since the escutcheon edge sits pretty flush.
If you choose to replace the stem, of course bring it with you. There may be markings on it to ID it. For instance, I've seen, looking closely, a PF on Price Phister's.
Oh, yea. Think I forgot that little detail of Oren's about turning off the water :-)
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wrote:

I go 360 around them without a problem. Same for the shower pipe escutcheon.
The tub spout is another bowl of beans. The spout has a small hole at 6 o'clock (near the set screw) for drainage back into the tub. If this is caulked all the way around, water will leak back into the wall.
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Wouldn't question 7-5 or 360 is better or worse than the other.

Exactly. And that's not necessairly easy on an escutcheon. No notch because you don't know where it's gonna stop tight. I've fitted them, removed, made a notch then installed permanently. Probably a waste of tiem...except for the warm-fuzzy.
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The cap in knurled...the spout needs help too because the diverter valve doesnt completely shut off water to the spout when the thing is up. Thanks for all the info though...I assume the spout is threaded on and will turn off?
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wrote:

Yes, turns off. Again, how easily depends on how corroded.
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wrote:
OK here is the pic http://tinypic.com/r/2roql1g/6
Looks to me like American Standard.
I believe the escutions do unscrew, thin wire or dental floss might be best to cut the caulk. Heat from a heat gun might also help. On some of these the H & C buttons actually are threaded in, the threaded buttons usually have a knurl. Hard to see in your photo.
Some of these have fixed seats rather than replaceable ones and if the seat is bad you need to resurface the seat with a little cutter. Once you have the stem out look in the hole. Removable seats will have a square or hex hole for the seat wrench.
Good luck.
--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
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wrote:

Sounds nasty. Thank goodness for POS Price Pfister.

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