Please Help diagnosing Garage Door Opener problem!

[antonyg2]

Hi,

My Craftman 1/2 HP Garage Door opener stoped working after a thunder storm, even though I had plugged it thru a [cheap] "surge protector" outlet adapter...

When I tried to open it using either the wallmount push button or the remote control, I can only hear a distinct "CLICK" sound from the opener (like the motor tries to start), but then nothing happen (no humming whatsoever). Every attempt would produce a clicking sound. Not sure if the sound came from the motor itself, or from any of the surrounded components...

There appears to be power going thru some parts of the system: (little) indicator lights are ON on the wallmount control unit and the safety sensor, but NOT from the regular lightbulbs that are on the two sides of the opener. These lights nornally can be turned on from another button the wallmout pannel. I tested these bulbs and they are not burnt out. It's just that there's no power delivered to their sockets now...

Can someone tell me if this is a typical symptom of a "bad capacitor" (Part number 30B363 according to the manual), or it is the motor itself that is dead? Any idea or suggestion would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you in advance.

[Ken]

The click is probably a solenoid that is used to activate the motor etc. Start at the solenoid and look for bad contacts first. Next check for the proper output voltage on the power unit. Some have a power supply with multiple output voltages. Be careful or get help if you are not comfortable with electricity.

[doordoc]

It's 99% probably not the capacitor or the motor, but something on the logic board that is burnt out. It you inspect the board closely you may see obvious burn marks, but if the storm damaged the chip there may not be any obvious burn marks at all. Some people may attempt to repair the board but most would simply replace it.

Doordoc

[antonyg2]

Thank you for your suggestions, and I think I will need to get help to try them, since I don't have enough knowlegde of the motor assembly and proper measurement equipments..:-(

[antonyg2]

Hmmm, I was hoping that won't be the logic board...Last time I checked, I was about $75.00 without shipping..The worst part is that I don't even know if replacing the board will even fix the problem :-(

I'll try to examine the board to see any obvious burnt mark like you said...Thank you the suggestion!

[Bob M.]

Take that surge protector thing out and plug the opener directly into the wall outlet. Does it work then?

[Rich]

I agree with DoorDoc, replacing that logic board is the common fix.

But I would just replace the entire operator if the unit shows signs of other wear and tear, such as plastic gear shavings, worn sprocket bearings or any other issues that would not make replacing the logic-board cost effective in the long run.

Rich ==================================== Garage Door Parts, LLC

[antonyg2]

No it does not :-( I've tried it from differnt outlets (with extension cable) with the same [bad] results...

Thanks for your suggestion though..

[antonyg2]

Thank you Rich for the link. From the bottom of the linked page, there is a "diagnostic codes" table that shows the meanings of the number of LED flashes on the logic board. The LED on my board would flash 5 times every time I try to operate the opener, and according to the table, this incates "Possible RPM sensor failure/Motor overheated - unplug to reset"

Well, I've unpluged and re-pluged it a hundred times already...Does this mean the motor is toasted??

Rich wrote:

[Rich]

I suspect a fried RPM sensor; part number 41C4398A $14.21

Rich ==================================== Garage Door Parts, LLC

>

[antonyg2]

Thank you Rich

I will try to identify and examine the RPM sensor when I get home tonight . Even if there is no visible damage, I think $14.21 is worth a try :)

[w_tom]

[Mys Terry]

It doesn't really point to anything other than the fact that the logic board is expecting the motor to be turning and it is not. Error codes can be deceitful and point you away friom the real issue. Garage door logic boards are really not very sophisticated.

The logic board itself is not designed to withstand much of anything. They go bad fairly often with little provocation.

Other than that, you could test resistance in the various leaf switches, and also verify to be sure some safety device isn't damaged. You will need a VOM and know how to use it. If you don't know how to do that, you may as well order a logic board, as a service call by a technician is going to cost more than a logic board, all sensors and a motor, combined.

If your opener is similar to new ones, you might consider just buying a whole new unit for $150, and keep all the spare parts you won't need right away. You may need them eventually.

>

Terry & Skipper, Clearlake Texas

[antonyg2]

Thank for your suggestion w_tom. The door and opener did have to be adjusted a few days before this happen :some loose screws on the door itself that made the door bent "unnaturally", so the opener's force had to be adjusted and readjusted as well. After this was fixed, the door was also greased very well and it works much better than before, however.

Our house has a history of equipment damaged due to lightning. The first time it happened several years ago, I had to replace both garage openners, and a sprinkler system controller as well. Since then, I had surge protector on each of the devices. They seem to work pretty well thru several big thunderstorms in the past few years...This time the thunder/lightning was also very close to our house, and the garage openner just not working right after that...

[Rich]

Tom, the OP obviously isn't that ignorant. He has already checked the diagnostic code "The LED on my board would flash 5 times every time I try to operate the opener, and according to thetable, this incates "Possible RPM sensor failure/Motor overheated - unplug to reset"

He's determined there is no power going to the light sockets... power is going to some parts of the system albeit little.

Evidently he's passed the *check the springs, pulleys and balance stage*

Rich ==================================== Garage Door Parts, LLC

[Matt]

Try just unplugging the unit for 30 minutes or so. That may fix it - did for me many moons ago.

[w_tom]

Plug-in surge protectors do not even claim to protect from the type of transient that lightning creates to cause electronics damage. To protect an adjacent garage door opener, that protector must somehow stop or block what even three miles of sky could not.

Effective protectors are routinely installed in high reliability facilities where direct strikes must never cause damage. Such protectors are available for residential protection and cost tens of times less money per protected appliance.

Even worse, a plug-in protector can provide the lightning transient with even more destructive paths through controller electronics.

That diagnostic code for "Possible RPM sensor failure/Motor overheated - unplug to reset" can also occur due to misadjusted door, failure of electronics (ie a relay) to power the 1/2 Hp motor, or anything else that would cause the motor to not move when ordered to move by controller's processor. Just too many items can cause that failure code. Electronics inside the opener are really quite simple. But without some same electronics knowledge, better to have some one service it, or better, just replace it.

Then address reas> Thank for your suggestion w_tom. The door and opener did have to be

[antonyg2]

Thank you Tom for the very good information!

I've always suspected those plug-in surge protectors...This time it really proved that they are not really working :-(

[w_tom]

Plug-in protector probably did exactly what its manufacturer's specs claim. Claims to protect from surges that don't typically exist. Does not claim to protect from another type surge that typically does electronics damage. So that the naive will recommend them, many plug-in protectors are also grossly undersized easily smoked. Any protector that is damaged during a surge is undersized - ineffective - failed prematurely leaving surge to confront electronics.

It's right there in numerical specs. Plug-in protectors don't even claim to provide the necessary protection. What they don't mention is that plug-in protectors can also contribute to damage of adjacent electronics (powered on or off) AND that a protector without earthing accomplishes little that is useful. Earthing is essential for an effective protector.

[Bud--]

Still at it?

The best paaper I have seen on surge protection is at

this a paper you originally provided a link to

- the title is "How to protect your house and its contents from lightning: IEEE guide for surge protection of equipment connected to AC power and cummunication circuits"

- it was published by the IEEE in 2005

- the IEEE is the dominant organization of electrical and electronic engineers in the US

- the 5 authors have broad experience with surge suppression

- the paper is divided into 7 sections

- one of the sections covers in point-of-use plug-in surge protectors (specifically multi-port) and how they protect

- another section provides specific protection examples, all using all using plug-in surge protectors

- the IEEE believes plug-in surge suppressors are effective

The NIST (formerly National Bureau of Standards) also promotes plug-in surge suppressors.

You have never furnished a link to a reputable source that said plug-in surge supprssors are not effective.

Are the IEEE and NIST wrong? Are you smarter than the 5 electrical engineers that wrote the IEEE paper?

bud--