PEX - Using hose clamps

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If you want a hack job, then use a hose clamp.
I know that a hose clamp will NEVER be as strong as the crimp ring used on PEX.
Also, you are not supposed to reuse a PEX joint, so if you cut the ring off, you will need to clip the end off the hose as well.
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nuf said...

The clamp would strip/break first :)

This is detailed in the material for my PEX system...now ten years old.
-- Oren
"I wouldn't even be here if my support group hadn't beaten me up."
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snipped-for-privacy@notmail.com wrote:

I think it's because those clamps don't apply even pressure all around the hose because the clamp is distorted where its screw fits. It's also possible that their screws work loose (one brand of clamp had a screw lock to prevent this). I have a heater hose fitting on my car that's a lot more likely to leak when I use a screw hose clamp rather than the factory flat spring steel clamp, even though the latter doesn't seem to clamp as tightly. Also I've read that air conditioner hoses for cars have to be crimped for systems that use leak-prone R-134a refrigerant rather than the old and now-illegal R-12, and one FAQ about making those crimp connections recommended actually measuring the crimps every 60 degrees with a micrometer o make sure they were perfectly round. Sure, household plumbing connections aren't the same as A/C or heater hose connections, but then the latter two aren't buried underground or inside walls and aren't expected to last decades without maintenance.
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snipped-for-privacy@notmail.com wrote:

If you think compressing a small cylinder of copper is "magic" ... ho boy...

Don't know - I used the solid ones.

Because they're not as strong? Because they're not even? Because you can over *and* under-tighten them? (How can you tell if they're the right pressure?) Because they can work loose? Because they're not designed to be used with PEX? Because they're *more* expensive than the little copper rings?

Pretty much everyone owns a pair of Vice Grips too: http://www.pexcrimper.com /
Did you miss that link in the previous thread? At around 50 crimpings, you'll save the cost of the crimper because you're not buying 50 hose clamps!

Who cares? When has "ease of removability" ever been a goal in plumbing? Seriously - that's just asking for leaks.
than the PEX clamps now being sold,

Forget about it... just go to Home Depot and pay $20 for 50' of PEX, grab some fittings and some hose clamps...
Let us know how it goes. For the time and energy you and others have put into this (and other) thread(s), you could have tried the hose clamps on a small project already! Whaddya got to loose? Remember the hose clamps are easy to remove right?
a
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On Monday, October 22, 2007 at 4:52:02 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@notmail.com wrote :

Hose clamps work on thick walled rubber hoses. Hose clamps wouldn't work o n pex. If you have pex plumbing in your house and usually do diy plumbing then buy the tool. Otherwise there are some reusable connectors that work on pex and can be used on "occasional" repairs. They work fine, the only t rouble is they run around $10 a piece.
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On 2/5/2015 1:43 PM, jamesgang wrote:

Cost me $50 per crimp. Still not a large part of the cost. One thing to watch out for is clearance. To get enough leverage, I had to dig the pit several feet wider so I could climb down in the hole and hurt myself trying to squeeze the handles in an awkward position. The other type of clamp may not require precise alignment of the tool and work better in tight spaces. Hydraulic crimpers solve the problem.
I wouldn't even think about using screw-type hose clamps. Just compare the cost of a leak in your wall while you're out of town to the cost of doing it right. Decision should be obvious.
You're gonna get the permits and have inspections, right? Inspector probably won't like hose clamps.
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