Painting Ceiling in Kitchen

On Jan 17, 4:45=A0pm, car crash wrote: [snip]

Having not actually watched you paint, I can only guess, but it sounds like you put the initial coat on too thick, and any coats you put on top will do nothing to knock down the original ridges. As others have already said, you're going to have to sand out the ridges and repaint.

Don't skimp on the roller covers - yeah, you might not get more than a few uses out of one before it starts to shed fibers, but it's still worth the peace of mind and lack of frustration to shell out a few extra dollars and maybe if you take care of them (and don't use tomato- soup red or tuscan orange - trust me) they'll last you for a while.

And don't buy that line o' crap on those roller covers treated with Teflon. They don't clean any easier than "regular" rollers and they do seem to shed fibers faster. Don't just randomly choose a package at the Big Box Store, but go to a genuine paint store and ask what they'd recommend as far as quality, lasting rollers.

One thing no one has mentioned yet, but I've found helpful, is not to roll in one direction, but change it up - up and down, left and right, at a 36.2 degree angle. My experience has shown I'm less likely to leave marks or miss a spot if I do that.

The gauge of not rolling to large an area (and getting the paint thin) or too small an area and making it too thick...well, that only comes with lots and lots of practice, and me? I'm still an apprentice...

Reply to
Kyle
Loading thread data ...

Umm, no, I have wallpaper in my kitchen with naturally finished wood trim (nearly 200-year-old-varnish) and normal 8' ceilings painted with semi-gloss, like every other sensible person. PLONK!

Reply to
h

If the cook is frying everyday or even just once-a-week fish fry, the area around the stove will eventually get greasy, including the ceiling. I have cheap builders paint on the ceiling, never painted after 18 years. It looks new, I don't fry. A gloss paint is good protection, but a gloss paint will reveal nail pops, flaws, and warps much more than a flat paint so a gloss paint might require considerable preparation work.

Speaking of vents... I looked at a rather nice house to buy (it was about $340K). I like everything about it except it blew cooking smoke, grease, steam and whatever else up into a hood and directed the blast back into the room toward the face! The stove was on an inside wall. I did not buy it.

Reply to
Phisherman

Hello,

Lots of good advice already given. I would add that you lightly go over a freshly painted 4 X 3 section with the roller BEFORE reloading it with paint. Do this light rolling in one direction only for all the sections. This helps to feather in each section. This also helps control the texture and helps hide lap and roller marks.

Good Luck

Reply to
Baron

Jesh , calm down and get a sense of humor...I was joking.(notice the LOL's) The OP ( who hasn't even bothered to check back with more info) isn't very good at painting and was trying to cover up the mess he has made of his ceiling and I pointed him to the most forgiving paint which is flat white ceiling paint which is "normally" fine...I have drywalled hundreds of houses over the last 20 or so years and we typically spray one coat of primer on ceilings and walls then spray 2 coats of flat white ceiling paint on all the ceilings back rolling it as we go..I have also done many repair jobs on existing ceilings and I have only seen the greasy messes that you all seemed concerned about in restaurants..Granted , I'm in Maine so maybe it's a regional or ethnic thing...Sorry if I "offended" anyone..I forget that you can't joke around anymore....Can't hurt anybodies feelings , don't you know...Just not PC anymore...Oh well.....plonk away...

Reply to
benick

Good grief, settle down.

formatting link

Reply to
Toddro

I have fixed the problem. It appears the quality of the roller was the big problem. I bought a low budget roller from Crappy Tire and it sucked. I went to home depot and bought what they said was the best roller they got. It rolled the ceiling perfectly. Thanks for the help and all the very interesting replies !!!!

Reply to
car crash

Lighten up, dear. I learned to read labels after my first paint job with Sears paint....It was such crap that I went to a real paint store, found Ben Moore by dumb luck, and learned about real paint.

FWIW, I use only alkyd semi in bath and kitchen. Clean-up is not that big a deal, and if I don't care to repaint for 20 years, BM is good for it.

Reply to
Norminn

Have you washed kitchen ceilings/walls that had flat paint on them? In my experience, there is no comparison for cleanability between flat and semi.

Reply to
Norminn

I was stupidly incredulous when I realized this one guy I know, labeled gifted in school, didn't read paint labels so he wasn't paying attention to how long paint dried before applying second coats. I told him that every brand and type of paint had different dry times and that one would be well advised to read the label to ascertain the needed elapsed time before painting over the first coat. He said he thought it didn't matter as long as the paint was dry to the touch, and I told him that these companies spend untold dollars testing their products in order to provide proper use instructions, and we pay for that and should read the labels to benefit. How else would you learn that Home Depot's crap paint Behr needs 4 hours between coats whereas Benjamin Moore only needs 2? Unfortunately he painted our bathroom while we were gone on vacation as a return of favor before I realized his idiocy, so I'll be curious to how long the paint will hold up. It does happen to be high end Sherwin Williams stuff, so it may be ok in the end.

Reply to
KLS

I've been painting with the "dry to the touch" for the past 50+ years and have never run into a problem with wall or ceiling paint. It is not possible for the paint company to give an accurate time period for re-coating. Temperature, humidity, surface material, thickness of the coat, all come into play.

One painting tip I learned many years ago is that good paint is worth the few extra bucks.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

"KLS" wrote

Mom used them by preference with almost every house we 'flipped'. It was a decent coverage, decent price, and long lasting. Use the higher end of their line and I've not heard bad of them. You can even reliably use their water based latex over previous oil based 'unknown paint brand' with just a little scuffing from sand paper.

At least, you used to be able to ;-) BTDT some 50 times but not recently.

Reply to
cshenk

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.